Comment

Day 62 - Jacksonville Beach, FL

image.jpg

This morning, I went powered hang gliding.  That’s kind of like a cross between a plane and a hang glider, or like a hang glider with an engine on it.  I really enjoyed it.  Compared to a plane, it had a simplicity to it that I found really nice.  I guess it was a little like when I first sat down on my scooter; I said “this is it”.  Of course it’s not that simple; the thing costs $60k brand new, and of course you have to get a pilot’s license.  Once, a few years back, I started getting my pilot’s license, but a combination of money and time made me have to give up on that.

Actually, that sentence is a little bit of a polite fiction.  Certainly money was an issue; at the time I was doing the pilot’s license, I was way overextended financially.  And time was a problem; I was trying to do it out in Concord to save money, and that was quite a commute.  But if I was being honest, there’s another factor that eventually fed into me stopping.  That factor - that thing - is a thing that I don’t really have a name for.  Some people would call it “depression”.  And that probably has an element of truth to it.  But that word is so overloaded these days.  When people think of depression, they think of sad people sitting in blue rooms on TV commercials for Prozac or some such.  The thing is, depression - or whatever you want to call it - comes on a total spectrum.  Of course there’s the “woe is me I am worthless” style of depression.  I’ve felt that way from time to time.  But then there’s the day-to-day thing.  The feeling you get at 4 pm in the afternoon at your desk, for example.  Lethargy.  Sloth.  The Oatmeal - one of my favorite webcomics - calls it The Blerch, and designed a whole character, a sort of lumpy fat couch cushion kind of guy that says things like “you can have one more cookie”.  To me, that feeling sits on the same spectrum as depression.  It’s sorta the same thing, just less so.  And I’ve spent a lot of my life fighting against that feeling.  I hate that feeling.  And, yes, I use the word “hate” deliberately.  It’s my worst enemy.  It comes on me when I least expect it.  Certain things seems to exacerbate it - not sleeping enough, of course, or not sleeping well.  Drinking too much alcohol, or too much caffeine.  Having it be way too hot out has been part of the problem this week.  Not getting enough exercise.  A lot of the things I enjoy in life are a direct response to this.  I like sleeping, and drinking water, and exercising, because they make that feeling go away.  This week I’ve had a hard time with this because of the change in environment, and because I’m not getting enough exercise, etc. etc.

I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that finding out how to keep that feeling at bay is the most important thing I will do with the rest of my life.  Why does it make me so angry?  Because, deep down, I am a really optimistic and energetic guy about life.  I have a lot of things I want to get done.  Become a personal trainer, run the Boston marathon, meet a beautiful woman and have two kids and, yes, learn to fly a powered hang glider.

A programming note: my next journey, Phase III, is going to start on the 26th or 27th and take me from Jacksonville to Melbourne Beach, then Orlando, then back to Jacksonville, for a total of about 450 miles!

Comment

Comment

Day 61 - Jacksonville Beach, FL

image.jpg

Yoga.  Since I’ve arrived in one place, I’ve returned to my yoga practice.  In doing so, I’ve rediscovered both what I love about yoga (almost all of it) and what occasionally irritates me about specific studios/teachers.  In an effort to both vent some steam, and to hopefully make a contribution to the community, I’ve started thinking about what a baseline for expectation setting should be for a yoga class.  Right now yoga is very free form and self-regulated - which is both great and also a little bit scary.  It means that, especially when traveling, there really is no way to know what you’re getting into with a new yoga studio.  For those of us that might be a little bit nervous or introverted about new places, that can be especially intimidating.

So, what I’d like to do is present the following as a starting point (not an end point) for discussion.  Let me know what you think - did I miss something?  Am I being too anal about something?  Does something here not belong?  

 

Code of Rights & Responsibilities For Yoga Students:

 

- I have the right to the sanctity of my person.

- I have the right to respect for my practice.

- I have the right to take care of my physical needs.

- I have the right to have class start and end on time.

- I have the right to a clean and safe practice space.

- My practice is not for the satisfaction of the instructor’s ego.

 

- I have the responsibility to allow other students to practice without distraction.

- I have the responsibility to respect the integrity of the studio and the instructor’s practice.

- I have the responsibility to be on time and prepared.

 

Further elaboration:

 

- I have the right to the sanctity of my person.

    This means that touching should be an opt-in activity.  This goes as well for equipment.  Instructors - and certainly fellow students - should ask before moving mats, towels, water bottles.  Touch - for adjustment or any other reason - should be “opt-in”, or at least there should be an easy and clear way to “opt out” (tokens on mats seems to work well).  And, certainly, inappropriate touch is always, well, inappropriate.

- I have the right to respect for my practice.

    This means that a person’s practice is their own and should be treated with respect.  That means no public shaming or negative comments about someone’s practice.  It also means that - as long as it’s done with respect - a student’s personal beliefs about their practice should be respected.  It also means that modification is always allowed.  Nobody knows a person’s body better than that person.

- I have the right to take care of my physical needs.

    This means I can drink water when I like, use the bathroom if I need to, and leave class if there is an emergency or a biological need to do so.  Refusing water, kidnapping students, and disallowing use of the bathroom are dehumanizing and have no place in a yoga classroom.

- I have the right to have class start and end on time.

    We all have lives outside of class, and it’s just plain disrespectful to not be able to plan in advance how a class will go.  If a teacher or studio really does not want to begin and end classes on time, they need to be very clear about that in advance, and allow students to leave early if necessary.

- I have the right to a clean and safe practice space.

    This should be obvious.

- My practice is not for the satisfaction of the instructor’s ego.

    Yoga class is not about the teacher’s ego.  Ideally it is also not about the student’s ego, but that is a personal journey for the student.  When the instructor makes it about being “right” or having the student “listen” or “obey” or “understand”, they use their ego to injure.

 

- I have the responsibility to allow other students to practice without distraction.

    This means that the exercise of my rights must impinge as little as humanly possible on the rights of other students to practice.  If I have to leave, or get a drink of water, I must do so with as little disruption as possible.  Modifications and deviations from the class practice should always be as minimal as possible to enable practice, and should always be done without disturbing other students (e.g., no grandstanding with inversions when the rest of the class in is child’s pose).

- I have the responsibility to respect the integrity of the studio and the instructor’s practice.

    I have arrived at this class to receive the benefit of the instruction of the studio.  If I disagree with the studio or instructor, I have the right to do so, but in as respectful a manner as possible.  The studio has the right to enforce policies.  And if I regularly disagree with the studio or instructor, I need to resolve that conflict quickly and quietly, or choose a different studio/instructor.

- I have the responsibility to be on time and prepared.

    This one is obvious.  Prepared means both physically (clean, dressed appropriately, mat, towel) and mentally. (no cell phones, no chatting)

What do you think?

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Days 53-60 (Jacksonville Beach, FL)

image.jpg

Trip Midmortem.  My apologies for not posting for a while.  I was catching up with family and getting some sleep, getting back into my yoga practice.  It’s interesting to transition from being on the road to being here, “resting” (even though I’ve been active), and at some point I will write about the philosophical implications of that.  But right now what I want to do is a recap of my trip.  When I was in the games industry we used to call that a “postmortem”, but I hate that term because it implies that the patient died.  I’d prefer to think that my trip is not yet over - in fact, may never be over.  So, “midmortem”.

I’ve made no secret of the fact that the trip was one of the best decisions I’ve made in a long time.  I loved it, and I plan on doing more things like it.  But here’s some more information about what went well and didn’t, particularly for those of you who might be thinking of doing something like this in the future:

Favorite Piece of Equipment: eTrex 10.  That’s my GPS unit.  Built like a tank, worked 100% of the time.  At one point it even fell off my bike and sat on the road while I - not realizing it was gone - ate breakfast.  When I went looking for it - easier because it’s bright yellow - it was still ticking along.  It got rained on heavily, thrown into bags, and it worked flawlessly.  And having it use AA batteries was huge.  So, the larger lesson is: when you take a trip like this, choose equipment for reliability, not for performance.  Who cares if the screen is huge and colorful if the battery is dead?

Runner Up: Lululemon Cruiser 2.0 Backpack.  The more I learn about Lululemon, the deeper my respect for them grows.  This backpack - which was designed to take you and your yoga mat to class - was my primary workhorse all the way across the country.  I hung straps off of it to carry my tent, sleeping bag, radio, etc., etc. - about 40 pounds of equipment.  At the very end of the trip, it started to rip along the weight bearing parts near the top.  So Lululemon *gave me a free bag*.  *And* let me keep the old one.  *And* took notes and pictures to send to their product department, so they could improve the next iteration of the bag.  Also, this bag is really well designed.  The compartments make a ton of sense and are easy to access.  The larger lesson here is: pick a bag that you like.  Arguably the bag you use - or panniers, or whatever - is the most important choice you’ll make for the whole trip.

Least Favorite Piece of Equipment: Rear Tire (manufacturer unknown).  In the middle of the trip, I ended up having some trouble with my rear tire.  Because I was carrying a backpack, the load on the two tires was uneven, and I ended up wearing out my rear tire.  It happened in a really inopportune place, so I had to go out of my way to a bike shop in a tourist town.  They talked me into buying more of a “touring tire”.  That thing was a piece of crap, and it lasted less than 400 miles before I had to replace it (and it was a huge hassle the whole time).  I went with the original brand I had - Randonneur - and have had no problems since.  To be fair, I think the issue was that the tire they sold me just wasn’t the right tire for my bike, since I had a carbon racing frame.  So the larger lesson here is: stick with what you know, and don’t make changes midstream.  And also: equipment has to work together.  If you have a racing bike, use racing tires.  If you have a touring bike, use touring tires.

Favorite Part of the Country: Western Oregon, hands down.  In fact the whole Pacific Northwest was the best, from the coast of Oregon through Missoula.  Partly I think that has to do with being on the Transamerica trail: everyone was prepared for me (us, really) and happy to see me.  Also I just think people are super friendly up there - but friendly in a genuine way.  I had no problem finding places to stay, and everything was inexpensive.  There were fun stops to make along the way, as well, and the weather was great.

Least Favorite Part of the Country: The north shore of Lake Erie, in Canada.  On the surface, this seems like a great part of the world to bike through: flat, straight, easy bike paths, along a lake.  But the people are just not ready for cyclists.  There’s nowhere to camp, and no motels.  Food is expensive and scarce, and water even more so.  It’s a very touristy area, but high-end bed-and-breakfast tourists, and they have nothing in common with cyclists.  And the Canadian mentality was very British - polite, and friendly enough, but not terribly interested in being helpful.  Several times I encountered situations that people in Oregon would have bent the rules for, but in Canada it was just “this is the way it is”.  With a smile on their face, but still.  For example, I would totally “stealth camp” in Idaho or Montana (that means just pitching your tent any old place), but I would never do that in Canada.

Roads Most In Need of Maintenance: Northern Ohio, on the south shore of Lake Erie, west of Cleveland, has the worst roads I’ve ever seen.  There was one road - Quarry Road - that looked like maybe the quarry was actually mining *the road*.  There was more hole than road, no exaggeration.  At one point I almost thought that, for the first time in 2400 miles, I might have to get off my bike.  It was super terrible!

The One Time I Actually Thought I Might Die: 101 North, in California, right at the beginning of my trip.  I learned a lesson that day: stick to the ACA maps if you can, and do not think you can ever ride on interstates, or major highways.  Because you can’t.  I had a semi come within 18 inches of my ear, and that is not a fun experience.

Best Memory: It’s a tie, between the Oregon Country Fair and dipping my toes in a river in Swisshome, OR.

Memory With The Most Potential For Growth: Changing my tire on the road outside Whitebird.

Thing I Wish I’d Known Before I Left: I wish I had put a bit more time into planning my stops, where I would stay overnight.  Through Oregon/Idaho/Montana, being spontaneous worked out fine, but in California, and around Lake Erie, it was less suitable.  I think if you stick to the Transamerica during the high season, you’re probably OK just winging it because there are so many services.  But if you’re off route or off season, planning ahead would be better.  A lot of times I missed out on Warmshowers/Couchsurfing/etc. because I didn’t give people enough warning, and a few days got kind of stressful when I didn’t know where I was staying that night.

Thing That Everyone Told Me Would Suck But Honestly It Didn’t: Riding with a backpack.  I’m not saying I recommend it; I don’t. But in a pinch, it worked fine.  The dire consequences everyone said I would experience just didn’t materialize.  Honestly the biggest problem was the uneven weight distribution, which tended to wear down my rear tire.  But tires wear out anyway; that’s always going to be an issue.

Favorite Takeaway:  It’s a tie, really, between the people I met, and the way I felt at the end of a long day of riding.  It was great to restore my faith in other people, and it was arguable even better to restore some faith in myself.

image.jpg

Comment

4 Comments

Day 52 - Jacksonville, FL

Funny Sign Day!! Things have been getting a bit too serious around here lately, and plus today is just a travel day, taken up with logistics n' such, so I decided to do something fun.  When I'm traveling, I often like to take pictures of signs that strike my fancy.  Here's a collection of fun pictures from my travels!

image.jpg

Sounds like one of those superpowers they give you on an improv comedy show.  "Somewhere...a barn needs painting! Awaaaaay!"

 

image.jpg

Or...well, you know.

image.jpg

The Last Best Place...For Savings!

image.jpg

Please bring soup.  Or jello.

image.jpg

Is...to be old?

 

image.jpg

Yes sir.  Wouldn't dream of it, sir.

 

image.jpg

I think you have a future in NOW.

 

image.jpg

At first I thought a decimal point was missing.  But no.  The fine is over $6000.

 

image.jpg

image.jpg

I'm glad he clarified that.

image.jpg

Oh, right, because they...wait, never mind.

 

more later! 

image.jpg

"Jeb, take out the trash!"  "Cain't, Ma, it's still on fire"

4 Comments

Comment

Day 51 - Buffalo, NY (93.91 mi)

image.jpg

I really didn’t want to write about Robin Williams today.  Of course, there’s the obvious reasons: I wish he wasn’t dead.  But, also, selfishly, today was supposed to be a day for me to celebrate.  But life doesn’t always work the way that you want, and the time is right to talk about this, while it’s still on people’s minds.  I can’t imagine what exactly Robin was thinking.  Nobody can ever really know exactly what is going on in another person’s mind.  And I would never suggest that he wasn’t getting help.  By all accounts, he had family that loved him, he was getting therapy - there was a support system around him.  And yet, this funny, talented, well-loved, rich man tied a belt to a door and hung himself - which I hear is quite painful and an awful way to die - rather than live one more day.  There are all sorts of terrible things about this.  But I’ve gotten the advice in the past that, as a writer, you’re most powerful when you write what you know, so I want to write about how, in particular, this terribleness intersects with my own life.

I’ve battled depression.  Most of my depression comes from anxiety, as opposed to the other way around.  I get so worried about things - whether I’m a good person, whether I’m doing a good job, why I’m single, etc., etc. - that I get depressed about it.  Some people go the other way; they get so down that it makes them anxious.  Anyway - I digress.  There have been two really low times in my life (from a mental health standpoint).  One was while I was still married, and I knew my marriage was wrong - or at least my life was wrong - and didn’t know what to do about it.  I was super lucky that time - I had someone around me (namely, my ex-wife Sarah) who really cared about me, and honestly listened.  The second time through, it was after my divorce, in San Francisco.  The first year or two went by fairly we’ll because I was still numb, but when the full weight of being single crashed in on me, I got pretty down.  And the thing about that time was, I found out who my true friends were - and I didn’t have any.

It’s become en vogue to talk about mental illness, and the stigma that surrounds it.  And that’s a good thing; I’m glad people are talking about it.  But the thing is, when most people talk about it, what they mean is “Mental Illness”, with a capital M and I.  And when they say “talk about it”, what they mean is “admit that it exists and then get help from a professional.”  And, of course, that’s a great start.  But Mental Illness often starts with mental illness.  That is - and i can speak from experience - some mental illness, maybe even most, starts with simple feelings; feelings of hopelessness, feelings of anxiety.  Feeling misunderstood.  It can be as simple as what we call “having a bad day” for a few days in a row, and not being sure why.  Sometimes you just want somebody to talk to.  This has been well-documented elsewhere, but in “the old days” we all had support structures around.  Extended families, groups of friends.  Lives lived in small towns, where you saw the same people over and over again.  These days, we have grab-bags of acquaintances and Facebook friends - and I’ll tell you, when the chips are down, that doesn’t mean shit.

As lives go, mine is more filled with bullshit than most.  What I mean by that is, I live in San Francisco, I date regularly - with high standards for physical attractiveness - I spend most of my time around late-20 and early-30-somethings, and I change jobs and apartments regularly.  That means I spend a lot of my time in situations with people who I don’t know at all, or barely know, and I’m often trying to impress those people - to date me, sleep with me, give me a job, let me live in their apartment, or just like me.  And, as a result, I’m under constant pressure to present a version of myself that is devoid of anything negative or sad.  It’s not just a matter of avoiding mention of Mental Illness; you can’t even mention mental illness.  You can’t have a bad day.  If you do, you better keep it to yourself, because nobody wants to hear it.  Try going on a date and mentioning that you’ve been feeling trapped at your job, or you had a frustrating day, or even that you’re not crazy about your roommate.  Immediate shutdown.  But…why?  Why is that?  Do we really want to select for people who can pretend well?  Do we really believe that there are people out there that never have bad days?  Is that the number one most important thing in a future mate, is that they never have any negative thoughts?  

Now, there are those who will say that a date, or a job interview, or a new apartment search, are not the right times or places to express your inner demons; that those things are best saved for family, or best friends, or such.  But there are a few problems with that theory.  One problem: we don’t have those things anymore.  Rare is the person who has the kind of support network people used to enjoy.  Parents are often overwhelmed and busy, and friends are as often a Playstation 3.  We live isolated, urban lives behind computer screens.  But also, I can’t help but feel that this approach is fundamentally wrong headed.  How are we supposed to live authentic lives when we have to keep putting on a mask when the chips are down?

Imagine a bit of a mental experiment.  Imagine you bought a ticket to watch Robin Williams do stand up comedy.  Maybe it’s a date, or you’re going out with your wife/husband, or a group of friends.  Robin comes out, maybe does a joke or too, and then he stops.  When he starts up again, he starts talking about how nervous he gets before going on stage.  He talks about how he did cocaine the day before, and he’s honestly feeling a bit nervous because he isn’t sure his wife really loves him.  You keep waiting for the joke to come, but time passes, and he’s still talking, and it’s starting to become clear: he isn’t joking.  You start to get a bit uncomfortable.  You look at your date/wife/friend and make a bit of a wan smile.  People in the audience are getting antsy.

This isn’t really a completely hypothetical situation: this is exactly what Dave Chappelle did, a few years back, when he dropped out of the comedy scene.

People wanted Robin Williams to be funny.  To make them laugh.  If he had “been himself”, then his career would never have gone anywhere.  It’s possible - although unlikely - that given all of his fame, if he had come out about his issues, people would have supported him.  But back when he was getting started, back when nobody knew his name, no-one cared.  And so, I’m sure part of him learned to push all the real Robin down, deep inside, and bring out the Funny Robin.  People liked Funny Robin.  And by the time it was time to let out Un-Funny Robin, it was too late.

You see, I am fundamentally an optimist about life and people, despite the many things that have happened to me.  I enjoy life, and I love being me - sometimes.  But only a fool would claim that every day is amazing, and only a stone statue has never felt depressed, or anxious, or angry.  Those are real feelings.  And when we discourage those feelings, when we invalidate the expression of those feelings, what we really do is de-humanize people.

There’s an article from Rolling Stone on the wall at the Rock n’ Roll Hall of Fame about an interview with Bill Clinton.  Near the end of the article, the writer remarks that Clinton seemed to drop his facade and became genuinely angry about something in public policy (I don’t recall what it was).  The writer remarked that was the part he liked best; the *real* Bill Clinton, passionate and angry.  But that sentiment is rare, and reserved for Presidents, CEOs and rock stars.  For most of us, we’re supposed to go quietly into that great night, not a single hair out of place, and never an unkind thought.

Well, forget it.  I want to know people - really know them - and I want people in my life who want to know me - really know me.  I won’t settle for any less, and you shouldn’t either.  So the next time you express a genuine feeling and the person across the table doesn’t want to give you that date/job/apartment, it’s their loss.  And the next time somebody tells you they’re having a bad day, nod and say “I’m always here to talk if you need someone to listen.”

I wish more people had done that with Robin.

 

Epilogue: Finished!  Phase II: complete!  

I finished!  There’s something that feels a bit magical about this phase being finished.  When I got to Missoula, it was amazing.  But it still felt a bit like a one-off thing - magical, both in an awesome way, but also in a “is this a fluke?” kind of way.  But now I’ve gone on *two* long bike rides, and as we all know, two is a pattern!  

Certainly this trip was not as “good” as the last one.  That trip was one of the best - maybe *the* best - month of my life.  This trip felt more like just a really cool athletic challenge.  I didn’t meet nearly as many cool people - with a couple of notable exceptions - and I think Canada just wasn’t my vibe.  Even though the riding was “easier” (less hills, less hot weather), somehow it felt more monotonous and less spiritual.  But, still, a bad day riding beats a good day working!  I can’t wait for Phase III: Florida Edition!

image.jpg

Comment

2 Comments

Day 50 - North East, PA (60.2 mi)

Kurt Cobain was on my mind today.  That’s certainly because of the Rock n’ Roll Hall of Fame yesterday, although perhaps also because of the weather today, which admittedly was downbeat, maybe even a bit Seattle-y and Nirvana-y.  [Editor’s note: I wrote this before Robin Williams’ suicide, but that seems particularly relevant now, and I’m going to talk about it in my next post.] Mother Nature’s final attempt to keep me from finishing my loop around the lake.  Anyway, Nirvana is one of the headlining exhibits in the downstairs area, and obviously they talk a lot about Kurt, and how he committed suicide at 27.  In the gift shop they had a book of reproductions of some of his personal journals, that I guess his wife gave to fans after he died.  It’s a mish-mash of things, presented without comment, which makes it even more powerful - just the papers he happened to have lying around when he died, I suppose.  What struck me about them was how *normal* many of them are.  Childishly incomplete shopping lists, abortive attempts at keeping a budget of some kind.  I was surprised to feel a sense of kinship with him.

Now - make no mistake - it would be easier to make a list of the things that Kurt Cobain and I do *not* share in common than those we do.  For one, I’ve never felt suicidal.  I’ve never been in a grunge band (although sometimes I kinda wish I had).  I’ve never been famous, never lived in Seattle, never been married to Courtney Love.  Believe it or not, I’m actually a pretty optimistic guy who’s relatively cheerful - at least on the inside.  But I think at some level we both share two things: we both feel misunderstood, and we both wish we could be “normal” sometimes, whatever that is.  The journals I read in that shop are not the memoirs of a man who wanted to live apart from society, like Ted Kaczynski, or Marilyn Manson.  They are the journals of a man who desperately wanted to be able to be normal, and go to the grocery store, etc., but just couldn’t quite seem to do it.  And I get that, because I’m often in situations where I *know* what “normal” people would do, I can visualize “normal”, and yet I just can’t quite get there.  I was having a conversation with my Dad earlier today and was struck by something he said; we were talking about where I would stay tonight, and I was saying that I could get a hotel but it would be expensive, or I could try to go on warmshowers/craigslist/etc. and try to find someone to let me stay at their place (or I could cheap out and camp in the rain).  He said - quite logically - that I should try to find someone to let me stay at their place, and I was trying to explain that was going to be hard for me, because I was in a really lousy (or at least introverted) mood, and I knew it would be hard to interact with people.  He advised me to just put on my “happy face”, and I said it was in my other pair of pants - and then he said - not in a mean way, but just as a matter of fact - that I would “have to suffer the consequences of being you.”

I immediately understood what he meant, and that’s something that I think Kurt Cobain would have understood.  It’s a good way of describing how I feel, a lot of the time.  I feel a powerful sense that I have to suffer the consequences of being me.  And it’s a really striking phrase, because of course, I can’t *be* anybody but me, and yet for some reason, society consistently wants me to.  Suddenly the lyrics to Smells Like Teen Spirit popped into my head:

I feel stupid, and contagious

Here we are now, entertain us…

A denial, A denial, A denial, A denial

I’m particularly struck by the word “contagious”. As with any great art, we could debate what he meant by that word; I’m sure there’s a thousand possibilities.  For me, what I get out of it, is that people always want you to be like them, and reward you for thinking like them, or at least pretending to.  Combine that with the next line, and I’m suddenly reminded of how people always want you to join them in whatever opinion or thought they have.  A lot of people have used the word “intense” to describe me, and even though I don’t really like that word, I’ll admit that it fits, and I think one of the reasons is that I just am not willing to sit around and do nothing, or feel nothing.  A lot of times, like on dates, or with coworkers, people want to talk about stuff like Game of Thrones.  I don’t particularly want to talk about Game of Thrones.  And that never goes over well.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten the advice - especially with dating - to just stick to really banal topics, avoid discussing anything important, stay neutral, make small talk, shoot the shit - and I just can’t do it.  I don’t like that stuff.  I’m exaggerating, of course - I have lots of meaningless hobbies, and at *times* I enjoy small talk.  I like YouTube.  But by and large, I like to really get into the meat of things.  To figure out what the heck we’re doing here, and why, and what we should do about it.  I’m intense, basically.  And people don’t like it.  They don’t want to think that hard.  A denial.

I would say there are maybe only 2 or 3 people on this entire planet that I feel like have ever really gotten who I am, and understood me.  Maybe 4, at a stretch.  And that sounds like a really angst-y thing to say, but I guess what I mean, concretely, is that people’s vision of me; who I am, what I value - is often out of wack - sometimes *way* out of wack - with what *I* think I am, and what I think I value.

In other words, people think I’m an intelligent, dark, intense, smart, argumentative and talented engineer, who’s a little bitter, more than a little depressed, reasonably attractive and funny.  But *I* think of myself as an intelligent, athletic, child-like artist, who is pretty intense, reasonably talented, relatively funny and fairly cheerful and calm.  It has become clear that I am the only person on the entire planet who thinks of me that way.  When I meet someone who also sees that inside of me, they will become very important in my life.  :)

2 Comments

Comment

Day 49 - Geneva-On-The-Lake, OH (77.4 mi)

image.jpg

Music!  Let’s talk about music today.  I stopped by the Rock n’ Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland on my way out of town.  I had been planning on being there for only an hour or so, but I actually found the place to be pretty awesome so I stuck around for the better part of the day.  Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but the natural power of the music can’t hide, and the smartest thing they do is basically just put you in front of some awesome artists doing their thing as often as possible.  There’s a bunch of displays and memorabilia, but I spent most of my time watching various compilations they put together, including awesome ones about early influences on rock, Elvis, and the modern phenomenon of music festivals.  Music has been a completely underrated part of my life.  And it’s important to me to fix that.  Oh, I’ve always enjoyed music in my own way, mostly by listening to the same things over and over again.  But I’m never taken a systematic approach to music appreciation.  And even more importantly, I’ve gotten out of the habit of *playing* music.  And I want to address both of those things.  The fact is that I would rather make mediocre music, be a mediocre athlete, and a mediocre theater actor, then simply miss out on those things.  I’m OK with sucking, and that’s a big shift in my life.  I need to do these things, even if it’s only for myself.  I need to do them for the sheer joy of doing them.  Even if nobody ever listens.

 

There’s something awesome about lying in your own pitched tent.  It’s fun to construct your own little hidey-hole.  I like the enclosed feeling, too.  I imagine it’s a bit like the way dog behaviorists describe a dog’s reaction to its cage.  It reduces anxiety to be in this little space.  My whole world consists of the possessions I have with me, which fit in a little pile in the corner.  That’s nice.  Tidy.

 

Today I had another one of those interactions that my life seems to have become famous for; the full-on social anxiety kind.  This one almost came to blows (its a boring story but it involved overbooking hostel beds).  What made it interesting and unique, though, was that I was acutely aware that the other person was the more nervous of the two of us.  In a weird way I felt like that was kind of a milestone for me.  I actually came away relatively pleased with the progress I’ve made and proud of the way I acted.  Don’t get me wrong, it was a C+ kind of encounter.  But considering I’m a bit of a D- student when it comes to these things, I feel like it was a step in the right direction.   I stood up for myself, there were no lasting negative consequences, and while I don’t think I made a friend, at least I’m not ashamed of how it went.  I’m just not that good at dealing with other people in situations like these, and I suspect I never really will be.  But it’s clear - and this is no big surprise, since I suspect it’s true for almost everyone - my poor performance in stressful situations is directly related to my overall anxiety level, often about totally unrelated things.  It’s like my life is one big example of those coffee mugs that say “don’t talk to me before I’ve had 3 cups”.  It’s like, “don’t talk to me until I figure my life out and exercise for at least 2 hours”.

 

I had a bad evening tonight.  Partly it was my own fault, partly circumstance, part bad luck, but I found myself wandering the back woods of northern Ohio at 11:45 PM, with my battery light fading, on dark two-lane country roads.  At one point a car came up behind me and I tried to get off the road and instead ended up face down in a ditch.  A lot of thoughts went through my head, most of them unproductive.  But the one I always come back to is that I’m not terribly sure if anyone would really care if something bad happened to me out there.  A few people would be mildly sad, sure, but I’m pretty alone in this life, or at least it feels that way.  I realize that, devoid of my mental context, that statement might seem pretty self-serving and self-pitying, but it isn’t, not really.  I don’t feel bad about that fact.  It’s true that my life hasn’t worked out the way I wanted.  I wanted a relationship - still do.  Sure, in the immediate sense, I chose to ride my bike around the country alone, but I’ve made no secret of the fact that, if I had my preference, I’d be living with a wife and maybe even a kid, in a house near SF or Austin or someplace cool like that, huge family Christmases, tons of relatives, that sort of thing.  But that didn’t happen, and the resentment I feel about that - while it’s still there someplace - no longer has the fire to it that it used to.  I just can’t get all that worked up about it anymore; that emotion seems to have burned itself out.  Life is about the now, the moment, and I’m enjoying my life the way it’s been dished up to me, single, alone, biking through the dark and lonely woods of Ohio, one moment face to the wind, next face to the dirt, but then, in the next, face to the sun.  That’s pretty great.

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 48 - Cleveland, OH (about 82 miles)

image.jpg

I want to talk about Golden Corral.  Partly that’s because I went there today, but partly it’s because I see it as a metaphor.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.   Today was my triumphant return to the United States of America.  (Yes, technically I visited when I swung by Detroit, but that was just a preview; now I’m back for good).  I was supposed to cycle through a bunch of lakeside Northern Ohio bedroom communities, but route 6 just wasn’t doing it for me, and for no good reason, I started googling buffet restaurants, and found a Golden Corral (!) about 20 miles away, and about 10 miles off route.  Now, 99.9% of people - and probably 100% of touring cyclists - would’ve ridden right past Elyrie, OH without a second thought.  But not me - 10 minutes later I was winding my way through suburbs on that unique sort of trip that happens when you let Google Maps plan your life.(An aside: Google amuses me.  If I thinks it can save you 1 minute or one tenth of a mile, it will literally take you down the garden path.  Today I rode through a gated apartment complex, presumably because it was the straightest line between my two points). 

An aside to tell a story or two.  As I was biking through the suburbs, I stopped to take a picture.  And while I stopped, I heard a voice off to my right.  A kid was sitting on the stoop.  He looked the way I *thought* I looked in high school; kind of disheveled and a bit too heavy.  He asked how long I'd been riding, and I told him, and he said "Hoooooly Cow."  I felt good.  But I also felt for him.  I hope he goes on an adventure of his own.  A second story: as I was walking unlocking my bike in front of the Golden Corral, a man came up and said "Wow!  You've got it figured out!"  "How so?" I said.  "You ride up to the restaurant so you don't end up looking like the rest of us!  Ha ha ha!"  :(  :(.

Anyway, an hour or two later, I had a plate of catfish, green bean casserole, and endless cookies and admittedly mediocre pie - lined up as far as the hungry eye could see. It was terrible - both in the literal sense and the poetic sense, as in a Grand, Terrible Brightness that forced me to look away.  I couldn’t think of a better way to celebrate than with this uniquely American thing.  I’ve travelled to other cities around the world, and I can’t think of a single one that could hold a Golden Corral.  In no other society on earth could you charge $15 for all the food a person could possibly eat, and still make money.  Whether that’s a good thing or bad is very much open to debate, but as an engineer and as a poet, I have to admire the breathtaking hubris made real.  It's likely that I was the only person in that whole place that - nutritionally - was even close to needing to be there, and I probably don't even qualify.  Like the Golden Gate Bridge, Golden Corral is a fierce and terrible dream that should never have been true, but is.  And it is delicious, and it will always remind me of home.

image.jpg

Change of topic.  I have a friend - many of them, actually, but there’s one in particular that I’m thinking about right now - that I understand very well.  I have a lot of insight into her and her life.  I think I understand her a lot better than she even thinks, and certainly a lot better than I let on.  The irony of my life is that I’ve been told on a number of occasions that I’m actually very perceptive, emotionally.  Of course, I am certainly wrong sometimes, but the fact remains - and I say this without ego - I’m not wrong often.  But the problem is, I don’t know what to do with that knowledge.  When I was younger, I would have been very open and straightforward with those opinions and thoughts and that understanding.  I’ve always been a believer in honesty and communication.  Sadly, it just hasn’t worked out - certainly not in my favor, but also not in theirs.  Whatever the reason - be it that I’m not a good communicator, or that I’m not the right vehicle for the message, or it’s just none of my damn business, or that my timing is bad, or all of the above and more, when I try to use what I feel or think I know to try to help others, it (just about) always backfires, and ends up making them - and myself - upset.  So the temptation is there to just back off, to do nothing.  But that feels so lousy.  It feels inauthentic, cowardly.  It’s stressful.  One of the things I tried to do to get out of this conundrum - damned if you do, damned if you don’t - is to become a better communicator.  And I do think I’ve made some small amount of progress.  But nowhere near enough, and nowhere near fast enough.  All the classes in Non Violent Communication, the meditation, the yoga - it’s helped a little, but it hasn’t really addressed the core problem; I’m basically a truth-teller, and people don’t want to know the truth.  And I get that; they’re not wrong.  I see that in my own life, when people tell me truth I’m not ready for.  Truth that isn’t presented in a useful and compassionate way, truth that isn’t given with love, in the right time, is just bluntness.  Being right doesn’t absolve you of the need to be kind.  I know that, I see that, I agree with that, which is why I keep things to myself.  But that - while it may make it easier to make and keep friends - ultimately makes me very sad.  Like a greyhound that can’t race, I feel cooped up, like I’m wasting the better part of me.  And it breeds isolation, inward thinking, lack of compassion.  It makes me feel alone.  And I don’t like that feeling.  But I don’t like anger and losing friends either.  I don’t know; I think there’s an answer here, but I’m not sure yet what it is.

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 47 - Kingsville, ON (34.6 mi)

image.jpg

A variety of odd topics come to mind.  Spending a good part of the last 48 hours in Detroit and Windsor, the question occurred to me: if I had to live in one or the other, which one would I pick?  Which one would you pick?  To make the comparison fair, I’ll tell you a bit more about Windsor.  It’s a city of about 300,000 people, but you’d never know it.  It has the feeling of a huge pile of suburbs all strung together.  There are a lot of Tim Hortons and shopping malls.  I drove through some nice neighborhoods, but I would never describe Windsor as wealthy or beautiful.  It’s solidly middle class, maybe a bit lower middle.  The closest I can think of is maybe some sort of Midwest suburb, like Hoffman Estates, where my ex’s family lived.  Detroit, of course, I assume you know.

Have you thought about it?  The real answer of course, for me, is that I wouldn’t live in either one.  That’s mostly due to the winters, which are pretty nasty in both cases.  But if I had to pick, I’d pick Detroit.  On the surface of it, Windsor has a lot of advantages.  Certainly the crime rate is way lower.  It’s marginally prettier (in its own way), there are very few weedy empty lots.  Day to day life would undoubtedly be easier.  And maybe that’s the problem.  A town like Windsor poses now challenges, and also very few opportunities for growth.  This is a place whose motto is “Windsor: The Place To Be”.  (Windsor: It’s A Place You Can Exist In).  In a very real way there’s basically nothing there.  It’s like a womb for adults (I’m exaggerating here for effect, but just go with it).  Life could easily consist of commuting, Applebee’s, meeting friends for drinks at a mildly edgy bar, etc., etc.  It doesn’t have the outdoors advantages of a place like Bend, it doesn’t have the grunge of a place like Austin or Eugene, it doesn’t have the whimsy of San Francisco.  It’s just - like Houston, where I went to school - a big pile of people who all happen to live next to each other.  Detroit, on the other hand, is a problem.  And part of me likes problems.  I’m not saying I would enjoy having to keep an eye on my wallet.  But things are *happening* in Detroit - or at least, they might be.  I saw people planting community gardens, starting new businesses.  Perhaps it’s an illusion of progress, but it’s a nice illusion.

image.jpg

Topic change: At first, I was a little bit bummed that I (sorta kinda) “quit” the trip across the country.  I knew it was the right thing to do, but it still felt like a defeat of sorts.  But the other day a thought occurred to me that really made me smile, and I can’t shake it, so I’m sharing it.  By structuring the trip the way that I am now - divided into a bunch of smaller trips - the awesome part is that the trip really never has to be over!  Structured the way it was before, there was an end - dip my bike in the atlantic ocean, then go back to my “real life” - play time is over.  But in the new paradigm, it’s more of a bunch of smaller trips.  First from San Francisco to Missoula, then around Lake Erie - next up is biking from Jax to Melbourne Beach to Orlando and back to Jacksonville.  And it doesn’t have to stop there - and it won’t.  I’m enjoying this too much not to do it again and again.  I’ve now got thoughts about doing the AIDS Life Cycle, the RSVP (Ride from Seattle to Vancouver to Party), the reverse trip from Virginia to Missoula next summer, RAGBRAI, etc., etc.  

The other cool thing about that thought was that it occurred to me that nobody - likely in the world - has ever done the exact trip that I’m doing.  It’s my trip.  Combined with the previous thought, I realized that my whole life could be mine - uniquely mine, a journey all to myself.  And that thought made me inexpressibly happy.

One of the things that this trip has made clear for me is that I really enjoy exercise, the outdoors, and motion.  So I’ve been making a list of things I want to get into - or more into, as the case may be.  Surfing, rock climbing, sailing, snowboarding, etc., etc.  The more extreme the better.  That’s a priority for me, once I return to “the real world”.  I recently signed up for a course to become a Certified Personal Trainer, which is part of a long arc of a switch to physically-based employment, that of course I’ve been talking about here for a while now. 

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 46 - Detroit, MI (39.5 mi)

image.jpg

If anyone ever asks you if they should try to ride a bike from Canada into Detroit, the answer is “no”.  :)  A nice woman along the way showed me a map of my trip and I could see that I was only about 30 miles away from the city.  My philosophy on this trip has been twofold: 1) When in doubt, do stuff and 2) Things will work out.  So, without thinking about it too hard, I turned the handlebars towards Detroit.  I figured, when am I going to go to Detroit?  And - not to give away the ending - in the end I think everything is going to be OK.  But - whew - what a journey!

If you bike into Windsor, which is just on the other side of a very small river from Detroit, you would imagine you can somehow get over to the U.S.  My first thought was the Ambassador Bridge - but they don’t allow cyclists or pedestrians, and there is no public transit over the bridge.  My second thought was the tunnel - but again, no cyclists allowed, no pedestrians.  And lest you imagine some sort of mad dash without getting caught, the problem is that the other end of the tunnel is Customs and DHS - not people you want to mess around with.  Now, it turns out there is a bus that the city of Windsor - begrudgingly - runs through the tunnel.  But you’re not allowed to take a bike on it.  So, yeah.  For the first time in my whole trip, I was actually, legitimately stuck.  So I ended up taking my bike apart, locking the frame to a pole outside the bus station, and carrying everything - wheels, seat, pannier, etc. - on the bike, and then a mile and a half walk into Detroit.

I wish I could honestly claim that things are looking’ up for ol’ Detroit.  In a way I suppose they are; the neighborhood I stayed in shows some clear signs of gentrification.  The hostel I was in is a great example.  And next door to the hostel - in a weedy empty lot with fake plastic flamingos - some folks were running a semi-permanent food cart out of an airstream trailer, complete with a bonfire out front.  It was honestly kind of awesome, and the weather has been amazing here.  But on the flip side, at least half the lots are empty and broken-down, and the sidewalks all torn up, and the White Castle still has bulletproof glass between you and the waiters.  One of the people I talked to called it a “work in progress”, which seems about right.

image.jpg

At the hostel, I met a really cool woman named Taylor, who in addition to being exceptionally attractive, also had a degree from Columbia in Biotech, and generally was one of those people that it’s hard not to envy.  But the thing that really made me interested was that, despite all the things she *could* be doing - and most likely would be doing, if she lived in SF - what she actually was doing was working as the Executive Director of this hostel (which basically just means she changed all the sheets!).  The reason I mention this is because I found myself really envious of her life - partially in a bad, jealousy-centric way, but also partly in a positive, inspiring way.  I think meeting people like her crystallizes thoughts in my head, which are still a little amorphous, but are leading me to form different goals and metrics for how to live my life.  She travels the world all the time, making tons of friends, checking out music festivals, and generally just doing one amazing thing after another.  And that’s appealing.  Yes, I want to settle down, have kids, all of that - but in the meantime, since that’s not working out, I want to *live*.  I want everyday to be awesome, and I used to think that was unrealistic, but now I’m less sure.  Maybe making a choice to prioritize awesomeness is actually an option, and a good option.  Concretely, that looks like this:

1) De-emphasize money.  Money is obviously important as a tool to get things done, but it’s clear to me that I don’t care about it intrinsically.  I don’t want to be rich.

2) Avoid owning things.  Things are a problem.  They cost money, they deflect your attention, and they weigh you down.  Of course, a few things are worth owning.  I’m not sure exactly what the criteria for owning something should be, but my guess is that it’s something about enabling experiences.  That is, everything I own should be something which is first of all a quality, reliable thing, and secondly something that enables an experience.  So a surfboard might qualify, but a collection of knick knacks definitely wouldn’t.

3) Meet and make friends with as many people as humanly possible.  People are the answer because they unlock awesome things.  They let you stay places for free, they get you backstage at concerts, they show you the ropes in new towns or new professions.  People are the key.

4) Do what you love, no matter the consequences.  For me, that means being active - being outside, getting exercise.  Whatever I do for a living is going to have to involve those things.  Ski instructor, fitness instructor, yoga teacher, whitewater tour guide - I don’t know what it will be, but something like that.

5) When in doubt, slap a smile on and fake it a little bit.  Nobody wants to listen to a grump.  Try as hard as possible to actually be happy, but because sometimes that won’t work out, fake it when you have to.

6) Learn skills that people care about.  Writing, making music, teaching skills like skiing, yoga, etc.  Being able to offer people something concrete and positive opens doors.

7) Stick to people-oriented activities.  Concretely, that means no sitting on computers in dark rooms.  It means being out and about with people, meeting people, talking to people, getting over my social anxiety.

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 45 - Leamington, ON (103.3 mi)

image.jpg

I realize the danger in being overly curmudgeonly, and I am about to indulge in some curmudgeon, so let’s review some things I really like about yesterday, and Canada:  the weather (apart from one short rain) has been amazing, and no time more so than yesterday.  I made the best time I’ve made this entire trip - a moving average of 15.4 MPH, which is pretty insane considering the pack I’m carrying.  I did 103 miles yesterday without even breaking a sweat.  If what you’re interested is the actual quality of the cycling, and if you like nice straight, flat roads, then you can’t do better than the north shore of Lake Erie.  I biked past a beautiful sunset, wind at my back, and the pedals turned as fast as they could in the highest gear I had.  And, generally, people are friendly - a lot of people have asked me about my trip.  And I’m still absolutely having a great time.  But, boy, am I ready to be done with Canada!

 

WHEREAS The nation of Canada did charge me $7 for a hamburger combo with a Medium Diet Pepsi, and notwithstanding the extremely hot high school girl behind the cash register, didst dispense to me a 12 oz. soda in a cup, and whereupon upon presenting it for refill I was informed that another 12 oz. soda would be full price, and

WHEREAS A goodly portion of the north shore of Lake Erie dost smell akin to the hindquarters of an animal, and

WHEREAS The nation of Canada did charge me $37 one night and $35 a subsequent night to pitch my tent, without water or electricity, given that their policy is that you cannot pitch a tent in city parks or on private land, and didst attempt to charge me $46 the third night, whereupon I said “F this” and got a motel [seriously - $46.  In Montana you could just bike up to a state park, put $8 in an envelope, and camp and fill your water bottle.  In a lot of cities you can just camp in their park for free], and

image.jpg

WHEREAS They just can’t let go of this British Empire thing, and didst name their roads things like Imperial Way and Queen St and Gentry Ave, and didst name their cities Chatham and Kent and Charing Cross, and put the Queen on their money, and

WHEREAS The price of a 6-inch sub and a diet coke at Subway was $11.50, and

WHEREAS They don’t sell a single sticker in the entire nation of Canada, making me sad that I couldn’t put any on my laptop, and 

WHEREAS It is 100% impossible to ride, or even carry or walk, your bike from Windsor to Detroit (OK this is half the U.S.’ fault), 

 

SO DO I DECLARE WAR on the infernal nation of Canada and all who she holds sway, forever and ever Amen.

 

Change of topic.  Because basically nothing happened yesterday, and it’s on my mind, I want to talk about a subject that I told myself I would leave off for the trip: online dating.  For various excellent reasons, I cancelled or stop using all of my online dating services before I left for the trip.  But one of them - Coffee Meets Bagel - just kind of kept ticking along; they have a model where they send one person each day, and they just kept doing it.  About a week ago, I got bored in a hotel room and clicked “Yes” on one of them - a moderately attractive 30-year-old blonde named Alissa who I liked because she was dressed to go to a Giants game.  We exchanged a few meaningless text messages, and then I offered to chat on the phone.  Late one night at the hostel in Buffalo, I walked to the Tim Hortons and we chatted on the phone for over a hour.  I say “chatted”, but in reality she did all the talking and I just listened.  She was some sort of professional working in the South Bay.  Honestly she spent almost the entire phone call complaining about dating in the Bay Area.  She talked about how she’d been doing it for years, and it was so shallow, and nobody wanted to make a commitment, and she really wanted to have kids, and men were just bad, and online dating was so fake, etc., etc.  I actually listened, because it’s a story I’ve heard before - from myself - and so I could commiserate.  I remember noting especially that she went on and on about men judging her for her appearance; she went so far as to tell me that she “wasn’t petite” and ask me if that was OK.  (She was not at all large, although I wouldn’t have said she was petite either).  It made me slightly more interested in her because I felt like we might share a common approach to dating and I could trust her to take this all seriously.  I rang off with her at midnight my time and we agreed we would talk again soon, and I gave her the address of my blog.

I didn’t hear from her for a few days - which is not unusual, and perfectly fine - but she popped in my head yesterday, so I sent her a quick text asking how things were going.  She responded - and I quote “Work has been crazy and have received some bad news from a friend.  Unfortunately, dating is tough for me right now, so taking a break.”  

I wish I could say I was surprised by this, but after years of online dating, I’m not surprised by anything anymore.  I wrote back briefly, asking if I should wait, or if she just wasn’t interested, period.  This time she wrote “Not sure that you’re physically my type.  Was hard to see in your pics on CMB [Coffee Meets Bagel] originally.  Sorry - but want to be honest.”

So there you go.

Again, I wish I could say that I was shocked, or abhorred at this behavior.  6 years ago, I would have been.  Now, it just makes me a bit sad - for myself, certainly, and also for the Alissas of the world.  The city of San Francisco is littered with people whose approach to dating is so fundamentally backwards that there is absolutely zero chance that they will ever positively affect anyone’s life, most especially their own (through dating, anyway; they may be awesome people to their friends, or professionally).  They are so lacking in self-awareness that they can’t help anyone.  But here’s the thing I want to emphasize - online dating makes this kind of behavior so, so much worse.  I do not believe this woman would have acted this way if we met in person.  There are a lot of things that bother me about this situation - it’s a waste of time, it’s demeaning (to me, certainly, but actually to her as well, even though she doesn’t realize it yet), and of course it’s a waste of money too.  But there’s two things that bother me the most.  The first is that it hardly ever seems to work.  Oh, sure, everyone has “that friend” who met someone online that they’ve had a great relationship with.  I know it happens.  But it seems like the odds would be better if I just sat on the front porch of this restaurant and threw rocks at reasonably attractive women until I happened to knock one of them out and drag them back to my cave.  There’s another thing that bothers me even more, though, and that is this: not only doesn’t it work, it also doesn’t work.  What I mean by this is, I have no idea - zero - whether Alissa would have been a good life partner for me, and - if she was being honest and had the self-awareness to realize it - she has no idea whether I would have been a good life partner for her.  And isn’t that supposed to be the entire point?  It’s like that restaurant I went to in Oregon, where the decor was nice, the service was good, but the food was lousy.  If online dating doesn’t actually tell you whether someone is a positive person for you to, you know, date, than what is the point?  What’s the point of all the questions, and profiles, and pictures, the meaningless texts back and forth?  Why not just throw everyone’s name in a giant bucket and pull randomly?  (I guess they do, that’s basically what speed dating is).  In 6 years of doing online dating - and almost every service out there - I have not detected any value in any of it, as far as the primary purpose of screening potential life partners goes.  Zero.  In fact, I could make a cogent argument that choosing randomly would actually be *better*, that the process *subtracts value* and *obscures valid emotions and ideas*.  It’s like trying to navigate the city of Chicago by using a map of Atlanta - not only is it of no value, it might actually be misleading, unless you immediately throw the map away.

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 42 - Dunnville, ON (83.5 miles)

image.jpg

The Friendship Trail bike path from Fort Erie to Port Clebourne is a cycling paradise.  It is flat; as flat as the earth before Copernicus.  It is straight; so straight if human eyesight was good enough you could see along its 17 mile length.  It is smooth like a baby’s bottom.  It is surrounded on both sides by gorgeous verdant greenery.  It is solely for the use of cyclists and an occasional jogger.  It is rarely interrupted.  It is OH MY GOD IT HURTS TO STARE DIRECTLY INTO THE PERFECTION IT GLOWS LIKE THE SUN MAKE IT STOP TURN IT OFF

OK, OK I exaggerate.  But I’ve never done 17 miles faster on my bicycle, ever.  Were I try to design a bike path I could not do a better job.  And yet, somehow it left me dissatisfied.  What is it about us humans, and me in particular, that wants things to be a little bit dirty, a little bit crooked, a little bit…broken?  Why can’t we be happy with things that are just right?  I’m reminded of a sketch from Mystery Science Theater 3000, one of my favorite TV shows.  The “kids” in the show are complaining about how the encyclopedias they have are incredibly old and out of date, so “dad” goes and buys them brand spankin’ new ones.  And their comment is telling: when asked if things are better now, their response is “No…no, actually we really enjoyed complaining.  Yeah, complaining was more fun.”

I think there’s an answer to this.  In addition to the other purposes I have in life, like love, I feel like one of the main reasons I was put on this earth was to learn things.  There’s a Buddhist myth that I like which says that everyone of us is just an aspect of Shiva (God) which He/She/It takes on in order to learn something new about what it’s like to be human.  And I do feel that way sometimes, like I’m learning things…for what?  I’m not sure.  But for some reason.  Anyway, to learn things, I feel like I have to be challenged, have to have puzzles to solve.  I guess that’s an engineer thing (although there’s a chicken and egg thing in there somewhere).  A perfect bike path reveals nothing, except that Fort Erie sure knows how to build a hell of a bike path.  I learned, really, nothing about the area, about myself, about cycling, except maybe how fast I can go under near-perfect conditions.

Anyway.  Canada is really nice.  One thing that was surprising to me was the level of patriotism.  The place is practically drowning in Canadian flags.  I would not have guessed that.  People are happy to be here. 

Whatever this drive for puzzle-solving is, it’s the same thing that made me leave the warm comfort of my uncle’s place for pitching this tent in the dark while being eaten by mosquitos (when will I learn to pitch my tent before it’s dark out?).  I could be eating a home cooked meal instead of these Tim Horton’s donuts (although i do love Tim Horton’s donuts.  All other donuts are like shadows of the One True Donut).  But the fact is, the 36 hours I spent with my Uncle, I didn’t do anything.  I learned some things about my family, and it was awesome to see my Uncle, but I basically stuck myself in neutral for a little bit - which is fine, once in a while, but I like motion and challenge and accomplishment, and laying on my Uncle’s couch watching American Ninja Warrior doesn’t cut it for long.  So awaaaaay we go!

image.jpg
image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 44 - St. Thomas, ON (57.1 miles)

image.jpg

Today, it rained.  Not a little tiny sprinkle, but about 25-30 miles of consistent rain, punctuated by a heavy downpour about 5-10 miles after I got started.  It’s an interesting thing about certain things, like rain and getting wet - they crystallize thought.  Whatever else you may have been thinking about beforehand, suddenly all you can think about is A) how nice it would be if it stopped raining and B) how nice it would be to be dry again.  I have a philosophy about rain, which is this: if it’s going to bother, it may as well go for it.  C’mon, Mother Nature, let’s see what you’ve got, is my motto.  And Canada delivered.  I was 100% soaking wet.  Curiosity about my gear was sated; things seem to basically be OK.  I wouldn’t say I *enjoyed* getting wet, but it wasn’t so bad, in the end.  And the sun came out, and dried me off, and life is good!

It’s been really challenging to find places to stay at night.  The area I’ve been biking through is pretty touristy and also fairly rural, and as a result, there’s not much in the way of motels or warmshowers or couchsurfing.  It’s just bed and breakfasts and vacation homes, and they are way out of my price range.  So today I biked an extra 10 miles (sorry, 16 kilometers) to a town called St. Thomas that’s off route but is a “normal” place, with a Walmart and a bunch of Tim Hortons and a cheap motel.

At the motel, when I arrived, an Indian man came to see me at the front desk.  We conducted our transaction, and then, as I was leaving, I paused, and worked up the courage to ask the question I really wanted to know the answer to.  “I’ve been all across the U.S. and now Canada,” I said (a slight exaggeration), “and I’ve stayed in a lot of moderately priced motels.  And almost every single one has been run by an Indian or Pakistani family.  Why is that?”

“Indian family,” he said.  “They’re all Indian.  Indians own something about 99% of all the motels in this country.”  He proceeded to explain that it was part history, part culture.  For one thing, Indians own hotels because, well, Indians own hotels.  They know how to run one, it’s easy to get a loan from a bank - it’s become expected.  But that, of course, begs the question of how the whole thing got started.  And he had some thoughts about that; basically, what he said was that Indians like to invest in something solid, like property - and owning a hotel is a great way to invest in property.  Which makes sense; if you open, say, a restaurant or store, you typically lease, but when you open a small hotel, you usually own it.  Plus, he said, when you run a hotel, you get a house for free - and typically a big one that an extended family with multiple generations can all live in.  So there you go.  “Hotels, Motels and Patels”, he said.

After my delicious warm shower, I set out to find a hardware store in St. Thomas (and I did, and it was awesome).  Biking gently around the city, no pack, no place specific to go, the sun started to set over the horizon, and suddenly I just felt *really good* for a minute.  I don’t know if there’s any great metaphysical importance to that; I think a lot of it was the hot shower, being dry for a change, and the freedom to just doodle around for a minute.  Plus I find suburbs to be comfortable.  After a little while they get suffocating, but in the beginning they feel familiar.  But it was a nice, warm feeling, and I wrapped it around me like a blanket.

image.jpg
image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 43 - Port Rowan, ON (73.01 miles)

image.jpg

I don’t honestly have anything deeply spiritual or intellectual to talk about today.  I’m not sure if that’s because I’m tired (which is true, but was true before), or because I’m running out of philosophical things to say (possible but seems unlikely) or if it’s the grey weather that’s making my mind a bit slow (maybe) or the fact that I’ve been camping and thus haven’t really had a proper shower (could be), but for whatever reason my brain is running at a really prosaic and surface level.  Donuts are good.  Rain is bad.  Biking on the flats is fun.  I wish I could get going earlier in the morning.  Etc., etc.

Canadian waitresses wear black yoga pants and it’s really sexy.  I don’t know if that’s good or bad.

The area I’m biking through is incredibly remote, in a way.  Of course, in a certain sense it’s not remote at all - the roads are lined with vacation homes, farms, and beaches, and there’s people everywhere.  But there are no restaurants, very few places to stay (mostly small and very expensive bed and breakfasts), and no stores.  So, for a cyclist, the effect is the same - it’s like cycling through Idaho; pack your own water.  I haven’t seen a roof over my head available for less than $129.

In Canada, they never let their credit cards out of their sight.  When you eat at a fancy restaurant, at the end of the meal, they bring you a little wireless device and you do the transaction right there at the table.  I asked one of my waitresses what they used to do before wireless, and she said that you had to go up to the front and pay in person.  I intimated that, in the US, it was considered part of good service to take care of that little errand without making the customer get up.  She was alternately amused and slightly disgusted.

image.jpg

The northern coast of Lake Erie is basically an idyllic paradise.  In several stretches, beautiful - or at least quaint - homes line the side of the road, while across the road at the lake are tiny little “resting spots”; benches, or docks, chairs artfully placed to suggest relaxation, with clear views of the water.  There’s only one problem: it smells bad.  Sometimes, it smells really bad.  I tried to figure out where the smell came from and I couldn’t.  It was mostly a serious barnyard smell.  It may have come from the farmland; behind the houses would often stretch acres of planted fertile ground.  But often there were no animals, only corn or wheat.  I developed a sneaking suspicion that the Lake itself was the source of the smell, which really grossed me out and leads me to another realization:

In 37 years on this planet, I’ve only identified two things that I truly hate.  And by hate I mean hate in a very immediate way.  I suppose in some sense I hate Hitler and cancer and heart disease, but those seem so remote that it’s hard to get too worked up about them.  But there are two things that can absolutely drive me nuts, every time.  One is traffic, which is not too relevant for this trip.  The other one is mosquitoes.  I hate mosquitoes.  I hate their buzzy little noise.  I hate that they suck my blood.  I really hate the way they make me itch for a week.  If I could wave a magic wand and make them all disappear (without any even worse consequences), I completely and absolutely would, in a heartbeat.  Years ago, one of my friends (I can’t remember who) made the following analogy about something else he hated: he said “If Wolfgang Puck made you a 5-course meal, replete with delicious sauces, glistening with all of his culinary skill, and then at the last second, he dropped trousers and took a little bit of a dump on top of it and then served it to you, you would not say it was 99% good.  You would not brush off the poop and eat the rest.  In fact, you likely would not ever eat anything in that place, or prepared by him, ever again.  In fact, you probably wouldn’t eat anything that *reminded* you of what he prepared.  You may, in fact, burn down the restaurant it was served in.”  This is how I feel about mosquitoes, and I think it’s as good a definition of “hate” as any I can come up with: when I’m camping in the woods and get swarmed by mosquitoes, I want to not only kill every last one of them, I want to fumigate the whole woods, and then maybe firebomb it, just to make sure.  I sort of feel the same way about bees, but since there’s a chance they could legitimately kill me, that somehow feels more rational.

image.jpg

Comment

1 Comment

Day 40 - Strykersville, NY (51.0 miles)

image.jpg

Today I want to talk about memory and perspective - those are topics that are on my mind, for obvious reasons.  I’ve been on a nostalgia tour of my (relatively distant) past, and it’s been fun, and I learned, or at least re-learned, some lessons.  I went today out to the house I was born in - 100 Deer Run, Glenwood, NY.  Biking up through the neighborhood, I couldn’t find the place - partly because it’s a confusing neighborhood, partly because it turns out the new owners painted the house blue.  I watched a cop sail past me twice, and had to remember that these little northeastern neighborhoods that cling to cliffs in upstate NY are not exactly, shall we say, stranger-friendly.  But I found the place.  Now, I have sketchy memories at best of the inside of the house, but I remember the yard really well.  I used to actually have this reoccurring nightmare where I would be walking up our long driveway to the house and to the left of me was the cliff that went up away from the driveway, so high you couldn’t see the top.  I would clamber up that hill (for some reason, in the dream) on pine needles under the tree, and crest the top to find a woods.  Walking through the woods, the ground would start to break up and become rocky and hot, and just then I would emerge into an open field.  Overhead I could hear helicopters chasing me, and I would get scared, and run to hide under a cardboard box that someone had placed out in the middle of an empty field.  Climbing under the box, I would suddenly realize that of course a helicopter could see me under this box, so I would frantically climb out from under the box and run across the field to a camper parked by the side of the field, throw open the door, run through the camper, throw open a door on the other side, and then…wake up.  Weird, huh?

Anyway, the point is - the driveway is there, but it’s only about 50 feet long.  And the hill?  It’s about 7 feet tall.  I can see over it.  Other things, too: I remember climbing over a stream to an island near our house.  Well, the stream is there - it’s about a foot wide - and so is the island - about 4 feet wide.  And I remember playing baseball in the back yard, and there was a tall cliff that led up to a busy road up at the top of the cliff.  Well, the cliff is 6 feet high, and the road is…very much not busy.

OK, OK, Adam - this is obvious, you say.  Of course, when you’re a little kid, things look bigger.  And yes, that makes sense.  But it’s amazing to be actually *confronted* with that.  I mean, these things from my childhood, they loom large.  They are, believe it or not, archetypes in my life.  When I confront a hard problem, it’s like that cliff up to the busy road.  When I have nightmares, I’m back walking that long driveway.  And I was thinking about what that meant, and realized that, as humans, we have this powerful need - a need to tell stories.  Anyone will tell you that I am more melodramatic than most.  To me, things have to have *meaning*.  I search for symbols in everything.  I want so desperately for life to have a purpose, and it leads me to create these metaphors, larger-than-life narratives.  We all do this, of course, and it isn’t necessarily a bad thing.  But it is interesting to suddenly realize that the things we hold most dear are often creations of our own mind.

Another story comes to mind along these lines.  I was hanging out with my uncle when the topic of his brother (my other uncle’s) death came up.  This is a story I’ve told and retold many times - to other people, of course, but mostly in my own head.  I read one time that there are really only 40 stories in the world, and this was one of my 40, and the story goes like this:  My uncle Emil was always a bit odd, the black sheep of the family.  He couldn’t get his act together.  Couldn’t hold down a job.  Well, when I was about 20, he started to get his life back together.  He had two kids with a woman named Cathy who I was begrudgingly told to call Aunt Cathy even though everyone in the family barely hid their contempt for her.  One day, the four of them were in their apartment, when a man broke in and had a gun.  He told Cathy and Emil to go and get their valuables and he herded the kids into the kitchen.  When they came back, he took the stuff, told the two of them to get down on their knees, and right in front of the two kids, shot both of them.  Then he went out to his pickup truck and shot himself.  Cathy lived, and took the kids, but my uncle died.  And the kids have been messed up ever since; rumor has it they ended up in juvie.  This story is - not exactly happy or heartwarming - but full of pathos.  My heart went out to my uncle, who was turning his life around.  My heart went out to the kids, forced to watch their parents get shot.  My heart even went out to Cathy, forced to raise two kids on her own surrounded by family that hated her.

Only, here’s the thing: almost none of that story is actually true.  Yes, my uncle was shot by a crazy man who also shot the woman he was with, then went out to his pickup and drove a few miles up the road and shot himself.  Cathy did end up raising the kids, and they did go to juvie (and it’s true that most of the family thought she was a bit slow and a terrible mom).  But the man who shot them was Emil’s crazy upstairs tenant that he had rented half his place to, with a known history of being not quite right.  And there was no robbery; the guy was mad because he thought Emil was poisoning him with “chlorine vapors”.  And, at the time, Emil had taken up with a new woman, Diane.  Diane - who none of us even know or met - was the one who got shot in the face and lived.  And there was no “execution style killing”; my uncle was shot in the basement at his computer, in the back.  The kids were not anywhere nearby; they had already been taken by Cathy.  

I have no idea how I got the story so wrong, but I’ve been telling it this way for 15+ years.

Now, the real story is still sad and dramatic, but obviously not nearly as dramatic (or melodramatic) as my version.  For some reason, my brain really wanted the story to play out the way a movie or an episode of CSI might; with good guys, bad guys, redemption, Act I, Act II, and so forth.  But life - real life - doesn’t play out so cleanly.

Besides just being an interesting phenomenon, it begs the question: what to do about this?  Is this good?  Is it good to construct these stories?  Buddhism would have us believe that what’s best is to see the world the way it really is; the pure unvarnished truth.  Part of me agrees with that.  The journey I’ve been on for the last 5 years could be seen as one of “decreasing drama”.  Because I’m so inclined towards theatrics and emotionality, that’s probably been a good journey to be on.  But where does it stop?  For example, I’m no longer inclined to believe in “terrible people”.  When you’ve seen as many different philosophies on life as I have, it’s hard to get too worked up about the life choices another person makes.  I only have two rules, now: make yourself happy, and don’t hurt anybody.  And sometimes I even relax those a little bit.  But - here’s the question: do I believe in *great* people?  *Can* you believe in great people without believing in terrible ones?  What would good look like if evil didn’t exist?  I don’t think you can feel warm without first feeling cold, feel happy without knowing what it’s like to feel sad.  Some may disagree with me about this, but there’s some hard science to support the notion that what we, as humans, are good at perceiving is *relative* data, not absolute.  We hear things as loud relative to the quiet that came before; smells are strong only for a while and then they fade.  So, if Hitler was simply confused and anxious, does that mean that Martin Luther King was just in the right place at the right time?  Can you have Gandhi without Stalin?  Obama without Putin?  If my parents were just doing the best they could, how heroic is it to be a parent?  If people who join the NRA (as my uncle has) are just doing what they think is best, then is gun control a cause worth marching for?  Who are we marching against?  Our own uncles?

Where does equanimity end and passion begin?

I have no answers - but these are my questions.

image.jpg
image.jpg

1 Comment

Comment

Day 39 - Buffalo, NY

image.jpg

I want to take a second and talk about how awesome hostels are.  I think they’re seriously under appreciated, and it’s time we fix that (or maybe not!  If they got too popular I guess the jig would be up).  I love meeting new people in a structured environment - check.  I love meeting people that are on the move, adventurous, travelers - check.  I love saving money - check.  Basically, a hostel is like a hotel except it costs a hell of a lot less and you instantly make a bunch of friends.  Also, they always are in the know - they have all the information you need about the local area.  And they often have awesome perks.  The hostel that I stayed in here in Buffalo has, for example, a room in the basement where you can sit on a comfy couch and watch old VHS tapes.  They also have laundry facilities, a place to store your bike, a full kitchen, a really nice reading room, free books, free clothing swap, and they are having an awesome sing-along tonight (which I can’t stay at).  It used to be that hostels were for young people only (do I still qualify?) but that’s started to change over the years.  And all that for $12.50 a night (the special bike rate, normally $25, still a hell of a deal).  Of course, if you’re a family, or if you just really want your privacy, then a hostel isn’t the right choice, but for people like me who are looking for an adventure, it’s honestly so amazingly awesome.

 

I read one time an item about the habits of highly successful people, and one of the things they said which resonated with me was that successful people make all their decisions in the morning, when they’re fresh and in the best mood.  They plan out most, if not all of their day and make the major choices that they know they’ll face - leaving room to correct course, of course.  I thought this was a great idea - still do - but I think I could go even further with it.  If it makes sense for a day, it makes sense for a lifetime.  That is, I can make most of the major decisions about how to approach life when I’m ready for them, relaxed and in a good mood, and then just stick to those.  So, that’s part of what this trip is about, is figuring out myself and making choices.  You see, I find decision making to be stressful.  Being out on the road, I could relax because my life was pretty well planned out - get up, ride the bike, find a place to rest, fall asleep.  Rinse, repeat.  Here in civilization, things get a little blobby, and there’s a ton of little choices - where to eat, when to work out and how much, how much money to spend.  It would be nice to have a game plan, but instead of using someone else’s, why not write my own?  So, here’s some things that I forthwith realize about myself:

 

1) The obvious - making decisions stresses me out.  I’m good at it, and capable of doing it; I’m not wishy-washy by any means.  But, I find it anxiety-producing.  I think when I’m older I’m going to enjoy those tours where they just point in a direction and tell you what to look at.

2) I love to exercise (cardio).  It physically puts me in a good mood.  It’s not even rational; it works at a deeper level than that.  I just love the feeling of motion.

image.jpg

3) I get bored easily.  I need new things all the time to keep me motivated.  As a corollary to that, I vastly prefer exercising outside because it holds my attention so much better.  I think this is one of the reasons I have trouble with lifting weights.  If somebody could invent a machine where, by lifting weights, I somehow moved around the country, I’d be incredibly buff by now.

4) I like group events.  They provide a nice balance between introversion and extroversion.  I love meeting new people, but I really enjoy structure around it, to take away some of the social anxiety.

Based on these 4 items, it would seem like an ideal activity for me would be group events where you exercise outside, and somebody takes care of the details.  And, indeed, I’ve done a few things like this and I always enjoy them.  So figure that to be a big part of my life from here on out - charity races, ski trips, running clubs, etc.

Related to the drive for new things is a love of learning, and of schools - like universities.  Also I tend to be attracted to youth, or people that think youthfully.  So I have often thought that some kind of teaching job - maybe at a university or community college - could be in my future.

5) Hydration is a big part of my mood.  It’s become clear that I need to drink a lot of water.  I don’t know if that’s just the way I’m built, or the fact that I exercise, or both.  I literally cannot out-drink my body.

6) I get way too sentimental about things.  I think the fact that I don’t have an obvious target for my emotions - a family, a relationship - makes me randomly just focus on weird stuff and ascribe way too much emotional content to it.  I tear up about old movies, mope about perceived slights, and generally act like a teenage girl.  I think to some extent I have to just accept that’s part of my psyche, but I also think that, with some changes to my life in this other categories, I could learn to get a grip.

Related to both of these things is a tendency to misidentify my moods, especially my bad moods.  Oftentimes I get existential about what amounts to just a lack of hydration or sleep, or just not getting enough exercise.  I’m reminded of Scrooge’s line about a ghost just being “a bad bit of beef…there’s more gravy than grave about you”.  

 

One theme of the last few weeks has been the juxtaposition of the new and the old.  Biking around Buffalo has been a sort of nostalgia tour for me, but interspersed with the “modern me”.  I spent a day bouncing around the area looking at old houses - the house I grew up in, the house my grandma lived in, the restaurant we always used to eat lunch in - but also doing things the new me loves - I went to a power yoga class, spent a good part of the day on a bike, went to an electronic music event at night.  And it was cool.  Weird, but cool.  Like a joining of a string.  Hard to describe.  It made my past - which at times felt a bit fuzzy and indistinct - really come into focus.

 

image.jpg

Comment

Comment

Day 38 - Buffalo, NY (29.81 miles)

image.jpg

It’s hard to know what to write about today.  I spent the last 24 hours in the company of both my friend Emily (yes, the Emily from Oregon, we happened to bump into each other again, how awesome is that) as well as some serious civilization.  A lot of cool things happened to me, like riding the boat under the falls, and going to some Shakespeare last night (A Comedy of Errors - one of my favorites just because it gives the actors such an opportunity to emote).  But somehow the thoughts don’t really resolve themselves into anything particularly profound.  And that, in and of itself, is interesting to me, and what I want to write about: the power of being alone, as a tool for understanding yourself.

One of the things I’ve struggled with in life is the definition of myself as an introvert or an extrovert.  When I take the Meyers-Briggs tests, I usually fall right down the middle of the I/E spectrum, often slightly to the E side, although it depends on when I take the test.  But any effort to put myself into one of those two bins just seems to lead to frustration and confusion.  It’s like the more I think about it, the less sure I am.  I certainly have a lot of introverted tendencies.  I like being alone, and when I rest by myself, that does seem to recharge my batteries.  But, on the other hand, I love people, love parties.  When I am by myself for too long I get kind of antsy.  When I was a kid, I was the life of the party, always the one telling stories.  I have video of myself at my own birthday party - I think I was 8 - and I look like the kid who might grow up to be President.  As I’ve gotten older, though, more introverted tendencies have sunk in.  In thinking about why that is, I realized that I’ve just gotten a bit wary of other people.  Part of that is getting a divorce, part of that is living in cities like NYC and SF, and part of it is just the result of some unfortunate interactions with friends and people that I’ve let get close to me.  I would not describe myself as jaded or cynical - in fact far from it, I’m very optimistic about people - but I would just say that I’ve rediscovered the joy of turning inwards.  

image.jpg
image.jpg

Comment

1 Comment

Day 37 - Niagara Falls, NY (30.4 miles)

image.jpg

Today I went up to Niagara Falls, NY to visit a friend and the Canadian side of the falls.  After the long bus ride it was nice to get on the bike and ride.  Going up the Canadian side was very pastoral.  Canada has almost a British countryside feel, which is hardly suprising - very genteel, very established, spread out and green and quiet.  The roads up through the countryside along the river are staggered - the houses and bikes ride alongside a separate, smaller road while cars whoosh (ok, slowly whoosh) on the main road.  I took the road with the cars because the bike lane was too windy and slow.  I'm on a *serious* bike ride, here, people.  

Once again I was amazed at my own resourcefulness - to get off the Greyhound, get the box, assemble the bike, ride to pick up my passport, and then get into Canada and get to the hostel, all before dinner - it's amazing what I'm able to accomplish when I set my mind to it.  Clifton Hill - the area we are staying in - is like a mini-Vegas, with neon lights flashing everywhere.  But perhaps more about that tomorrow.

image.jpg
image.jpg

1 Comment

Comment

Day 36 - On A Bus Someplace In Ohio

image.jpg

I want to talk a little bit about bus travel, since I’ve spent 30+ hours on them and I’m about to spend another 10 or so.  It’s become obvious to me through this whole little adventure that the *way* we experience travel will end up telling as much about what we see - and what we learn about ourselves - as where we go.  There’s a certain rhythm to what I experienced on the bike, and the bus is really different.  On the bike I found myself slowly relaxing, starting to trust myself more and more.  I felt almost comfortable there, by the end of it.  On the bus, I feel terribly terribly exposed.  The general goodwill towards man is still there, but I look a bit suspiciously at my fellow traveler.  It doesn’t help that they look suspiciously at me.  Part of it is my concern about the bike - my home, as I told one bus driver - trapped under the bus.  I feel it down there, much like if someone was flying with a dog that had to go into the luggage compartment.  I want to rescue it.  I keep worrying that it won’t make a connection.

That’s not to say that it’s all bad.  For some reason the bus has developed a bad rap in this country.  But the truth is that they’ve all run on time, they’re clean, they have outlets and wi-fi, and - unlike flying or the train - at least I have gotten to see some of the country I’m traveling through.  I got to witness the sparse regularity and almost bewildering niceness of Fargo, I walked through the rain and wind to get the only true deep dish pizza in the world in Chicago’s Giordano’s, and I - despite overwhelming odds to the contrary - ran a 6 minute mile to eat at Culver’s in Tomah, Wisconsin.  So not all bad.  But there’s a weird edge to my words and my thoughts that I very much look forward to shaking off them when I get to Buffalo.  The form of the traveller has changed from Missoula to here.  In the beginning it was all caucasians, of the sort you would expect in Montana, one with a shirt that said “Welcome To America.  Now Speak English.”  By this point, it’s mostly African-Americans.  But the essential *distrust* doesn’t seem to come from the color.  It’s something about actually being on the bus.  Or maybe it’s the fact that the bus is seen as the place of last resort.  There’s a defensiveness about it than I certainly didn’t experience on a bike or in a car, or even on the train.  Just like air travel seems to turn even good people into dour-faced stodges, the bus seems to turn everyone a bit paranoid.  Maybe it’s the fact that, on a bike, you’re your own man, but on the bus - much like air travel or the train - you’re at the mercy of this complex and uncaring system.  I was in a convenience store in Montana, near the border, opening some nachos, when the bus driver called for everyone to get back on.  I panicked and threw money at the attendant and ran back to the bus.  A block down the road I realized I’d left my ticket on the counter at the shop.  I went up and told the driver, and she let me go back and get it.  I’d never run so fast in my life.  I had a vision of being stranded, alone, in rural Montana.  I’m starting to understand the American fascination with controlling your own method of transport.

I’ve been quoting from it for a while, but the book Blue Highways, which I’ve been reading for a week or so now, does a good job of highlighting what it would be like to travel the small towns of america with motorized transport.  I have this romantic notion that it would be fun to ride the same track he took, either with a van like he had, or on a motorcycle or other small individual transport.  He’s an excellent writer, although he’s definitely bleak and sad.  I sympathize, but I think I’ve escaped the worst of my depression.  I have no idea what will come next, but the bike made me optimistic.  Maybe he should have tried that.

With a bit of perspective from being off the bike, I think it’s a good time to look at what I might have learned about myself.  I remember before the trip I was very aware not to have high expectations - or any - about what I would learn, or change, about myself while out on the road.  I told everyone who would listen that I was aware I might wind up being exactly the same person I was when I left, just with a long ride under my belt.  So I was pleasantly surprised to learn - or re-learn, or cement - a few things about myself.  In no particular order:

1)  If forced to pick, I’ll take being too hot over being too cold.  I think this is one of those things that every man should figure out about himself at some point, and I’ve often wondered what my answer was.  It’s hard because when you’re hot you wish for cold, and when you’re cold you wish for hot.  But on this trip two things happened: I got to experience being too hot and being too cold back-to-back, and I had a lot of time alone to think about it.  And what I realized is: I don’t *like* being too hot, but it doesn’t bug me that much.  Being cold hurts.  It physically hurts, deep in the bones.  I can’t think, can’t act, can’t experience joy when I’m too cold.  So there it is.

2)  I love rivers.  Even more than oceans.  My favorite rides were through rural parts of Oregon and Montana with a river by my side.  More than anything, the flow of a cool, clear stream over rocks, and the promise of whitewater, make me happy.  Similarly, but less so, I prefer forests to deserts or swamps or any others.  So my favorite is forested river banks.

3)  I like the new.  I love motion, and change - of scenery, of ideas.  Of course I always knew this, but I think it’s really coming home to me that I’m seriously just happier when different things are happening to perplex and confound me.

4)  Food defines me.  It runs under everything I do.  I love food, I love its cultural aspects, preparing food, eating food, socializing over food, talking about food.  I just love food.

5)  I do genuinely like people.  When I give myself space to go about it at my own speed, and I’m given enough time on my own, I like to talk to strangers, and I find them interesting.  I just need time and space to come at them in my own way.

6)  I love being physically exhausted.  It makes me feel happy, outgoing, optimistic.  It has way more of a positive effect than I’d ever really considered before.  Like getting out of a pool of cold water, I get suffused through with this positive glow.

I’m about to pull in to my “ancestral home” (to use some overblown language) of Buffalo, NY.  But more about that next time.

image.jpg

Comment