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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 29 - Eureka, KS

Today I'd like to talk about the Midwest Pool Phenomenon.  Of course this is true of a lot of small towns, but it's really a thing out here, the summer pool thing.  And we are the beneficiaries, to be sure.  Today marks, I believe, the fifth pool that I've been in this trip.  Breaks Interstate Park, Eureka, Berea, Ash Grove, and one other I can't remember at the moment.  It's the full deal: pre-teens, a snack bar, hot lifeguards.  Ah, summer.  Usually there's an admission cost, but we get in for free because we're cycling.  And they have showers, typically.  What a deal! 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 28 - Chanute, KS

Today we ended up in Chanute, KS.  One of the claims to fame here is that they claim to be the center of the United States.  They have a large symbol painted on the road in the center of town that's clearly designed to be seen by Google from space.  We're not quite at the middle of our trip - the math is a bit different. 

Yesterday we heard some moving stories by folks with MS.  One of them was a woman with MS who is not very outgoing and obviously intimidated by raising money, but she powers through it and makes those phone calls.  Sometimes I get embarrassed by asking for donations so often, but I realized if she can do it, I can do it.  So won't you please donate?  Again it isn't for me, it's for those with MS.  Http://tinyurl.com/AdamBikes

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 27 - Pittsburg, KS

Today was a day off - and how better to spend a day off than to get on local TV news!!  We had several camera crews come and interview us, seperately - including me!  I was on KMOA tv locally.  We also got on TV for several other local stations.  I'll post some of the links below.  We had a great time interacting with the locals - everyone here has been so nice and above all interested in what we're doing.  If watching these makes you feel like donating, please do!  The first one is the story that I'm in:

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 26 - Pittsburg, KS

Well!  It finally happened.  I got my first flat of the trip.  I'm kind of glad to get it out of the way; now I can continue on my journey knowing that's behind me.  :)  Also, I got interviewed by the local news here.  http://www.koamtv.com/story/32311054/bike-the-us-for-ms-rolls-through-pitt

It continues to amaze me just how awesome everyone is to us.  I've gotten so much positive feedback and so much interest in my ride.  It's humbling.  Today we said goodbye to one of the people who's been following us; a guy by the name of Tom Johns who has MS and is wheelchair-bound but doesn't let that stop him.  He was really inspiring.

I would love to make just a few more dollars in donations to reach the halfway point for my journey.  If you can give, would you?  It goes right to those like Tommy who need it the most.  http://tinyurl.com/AdamBikes.

Oh yeah - and we're in Kansas now!

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 25 - Ash Grove, MO

So you want to ride across the country?  Well, you're going to need some simple lingo.  Ready?  Here we go:

Third Wheel - When a car hovers behind you and just won't pass around to the left.  (If you're a driver: it's cool that you're being careful.  That's a good thing.  But after a while, please pass us.)

Bonus Hill - When you get to what you think is the top of a hill and crest it only to find that there's another hill.

Elvis Roads - Really poorly maintained roads that have crappy surfaces.  So called because you get "All Shook Up".  A Missouri specialty.

#dogsoftransamstagram - The hashtag for the most adorable puppies.  Not applicable in Kentucky.  Those dogs suck.

Segment Riders - People who only ride with us for a portion of the ride.  They are awesome while they are here but once they leave they  become like living legends of the past.

"A$$ Sandwich" - a lovingly sarcastic name, meant only in good fun of course, for all the super tiny towns we pass through in the middle of nowhere.  The limit for AS is a population of about 200 people.  If we increase the population of your town by 30%, you may live in AS.

Other things worth noting: Every camp is legally required to be right next to a really loud train, chains are made to pop off bicycles, and the only thing worth noting about a new town is whether they can provide us with a hot shower.

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 24 - Hartville, MO

Today was an awesome day.  Which is somewhat surprising, because I had to miss breakfast (which I hate), it rained on us (I hate the rain), the road was bumpy and shook us (I hate that), there were flies (ugh) and my technology is all slowly failing on me (I hate that too).  And anyone who knows me well knows that I don't suffer in silence or tolerate things well, as a general rule.  So what gives?  Well, it turns out I'm just really having a lot of fun.  I love biking, I love riding on my own and with other people.  We met a ride today who's doing the TransAm Race - they left on June 4th and the winner already won, in 18 days and an hour (!!!!).  This guy, Chuck, was targeting to finish in 30 days, which is an impressive 140 miles per day.  So there's always somebody faster than you, is the lesson here.  But it's such an amazingly fun trip.  I can't wait to go again tomorrow!

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 23 - Eminence, MO

Today was a long, hard, but really fun day in the heat and humidity of the Ozarks of Southern Missouri (home of the Missourians, apparently).  Lots of interesting and fun things happened today, but my focus was on the sudden realization and remembrance of how much I truly enjoy cycling.  There's been so much going on; the charity fundraising, meeting new people, planning out the future, etc. that I think I lost track of the basic joy that I have just in physically cycling.  I like a lot of physical activities in life; running, hiking, mountaineering, playing soccer, skiing, etc.  But I really felt today that joy of the open road, of motion powered by my own feet.  I ended up riding alone today for a good chunk, maybe 30 of the 90 miles we ended up doing.  The roads through the Ozarks were tough, but beautiful, with a green-ness that I hadn't seen since Virginia.  The rolling hills were a challenge, but the fun kind of challenge.  It's neat to know that this is something my body can do, and keep up with.  It feels good.  So, in addition to everything else great about this trip, I'd like to take a moment and just remember how fun it is just to ride a bicycle. 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 22 - Farmington, MO

An Ode To The Route 76 Signs

O! Rapt'rous decency of man!

To selfless toil with posthole tool and spade

O'er flowery field and fragrant dale


O splend'rous joy of verdant signage!

My effervescent fear and chime of peace.


Would'st all men's hands bend pipes of steel!

Or place amongst their midst such guidance!

A path through nature's moods to make.


I cheer thee, soixante-seize!  My ever friend

Except, of course, in Illinois,

Those heartless bastards.

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 21 - Chester, IL

Two things that I think I'd like to write about today.  Normally I try to pick just one, but this is my blog, my rules, so...tough!  Today, in terms of riding, we took a bit of a shortcut.  We cheated.  I got talked into it by a couple of the other riders.  It wasn't a big cheat.  We were supposed to do about 45 with some hills but ended up taking a bigger highway that went straight to our destination and we cut out some of the hills (but had more traffic, which is probably why the official maps don't go that way).  This minor cheat, though, really sparked a discussion in my own mind about why it is that I'm on this ride.  What is my goal?  What is important to me about the ride?  Am I doing this because I'm a completionist?  Am I doing it for charity?  Am I doing it to get in better shape?  Certainily the athletic aspect is a strong part of it for me.  By that criterion, taking a shortcut felt like it was only cheating myself.  Anyway.  I have no answers for you.  But the questions are intersting, as long as you don't take them too seriously.

The second thing is, I'm writing this from the spare bedroom of one of my best college friends ever, Jenn Stine (now Elam) and her husband Sean, both of whom were good friends at Rice.  They have two wonderful kids.  It's fun - if a bit odd - to be in such a normal human suburban context.  It's also a really interesting way to visualize what my life could be like with two kids.  But mostly it's just really good to see Jenn, who's one of the most openhearted and best people I know, and take a hot shower.

OK - three things.  We also caught a glimpse of the Mississippi on the way in.  It reminded me of the story about the four men and the elephant.  From a bike, it just looks like a big river.  Large and imposing, yes, but to know the real scale of its impact on human endeavour you have to look deeper, which we didn't get a chance to do.  Perhaps tomorrow, when we cross it.

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 19 - Carbondale, IL

I write this post from inside the suburban Murphysboro home of the Greens.  I called my Dad yesterday to wish him a happy Father's Day and he asked me, as he always does, "Where are you?".  When I told him I was hanging out in this beautiful suburban home, he asked "all of you?".  Yep, all of us!  And the people here cooked us dinner last night, and are cooking us dinner again tonight, and bought a keg.

And this is not an isolated incident.  Two nights ago I posted about the amazing welcome at the Baptist Church in Sebree and the delicious Kentucky food spread.  And then there was Hokie House in Blacksburg that gave us free chicken wings.  Or the Rising Silo Brewery that gave us free craft beer and roasted a whole pig.  And non-food things, too, like the group of bikers (motorcycles) waiting at the Ferry between Kentucky and Illinois that gave me $25 cash.  Or the guy who bought my prescription medication.  Etc., etc.

As we cross the country, I am just really astounded at how nice and giving everyone is.  Clearly part of that is because we're here for charity, but still.  I am not a person who is used to having people be nice to me.  It feels really good.

So, thank you.

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 18 - Cave-In-Rock, IL

So today we finally emerged from Kentucky into the cold light of Illinois, crossing the ferry here at Cave-In-Rock, IL.  It's called that because they have a cave.  In a rock. 

Anyway, when you're a kid, you get to have a really simple view of the world.  If somebody asks you about Kentucky, you might just say "that's where people have no teeth and too many dogs."  Then, when you get older, you start to understand that stereotypes are bad and mean and that really you should give people a second chance.  But, as you progress past that, you arrive at a third truth: stereotypes are stereotypes because they have at least a kernel of truth to them.  Life in a place like Portland is often an exercise in denial of stereotypes.  It's the hipster way.  On base, I think this is a good thing; giving people the chance to be individuals is always better than pre-judging them as a group.  But here's the thing: people in Kentucky, by and large, at least on our trip, were in need of a few teeth, and did in fact have too many dogs.  This is the cold hard truth about the world, and about adulthood: the reason it's a challenge to avoid being locked into stereotypes is because they are so convenient and an easy way to just understand and summarize things. 

So, here's to Kentucky.  I didn't like you quite as much as Virginia, but you definitely know how to make amazing fried chicken, and your Western farmlands are gloriously flat.  Just please do something about the dogs. 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 17 - Sebree, KY

Today is our last day in Kentucky and I'd like to take the opportunity to thank all of the people who have sponsored my ride so far! 

Mark Jeffcoat - Thanks, man.  Feels like we've been friends forever

Satoko Igarashi - Roommates!  

Laurel Aszman - So great riding with your family. 

Mom and Dad - Thanks so much for the ride up, and for delivering my car. 

Jamie - To my absolute favorite band mate. 

Ryan and Ame Shillington - Hope to see you guys soon! 

Ryan and Ame Krech - So great to get the support from you guys. 

Mae and Thayne Coffman - You guys are like the perfect couple. 

Tommy Taylor - Can't wait to get back up to Portland and climb! 

Jason Hunter - See you soon in San Fran! 

Jeanne Carment - Your postcard is on the way! 

Breckin Loggins - Let's hang out when I'm in SF! 

Jessica Deans - Your donation means a lot to me. 

Brenda Anderson - It's funny that we've still never met in person. :) 

And all the other anonymous and other donations.  It really makes my ride just so much more meaningful and fun! 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 16 - Falls of Rough, VA

Today, I rode 133 miles.  Which is absurd.  To give you an idea of what that feels like, here is a chronology of my day. 

(Before I get too far, let me say that this was not an official Bike the US for MS day.  This is me doing something stupid and extra to see the caves.  This is not typical for the tour.) 

5:30, Mile 0 - Attempt to get up and fail miserably. 

7:30, Mile 0 - Finally get rolling.  Blissfully unaware of the day that is to come. 

Mile 20 - I surprise a cow.  It's about 3 feet from me when it sees me and has literally the most human reaction I've ever seen from an animal.  The look on its face is like "Oh crap, it's a dude on a bike" 

Mile 30 - The sun is shining and all is right with the world

Mile 40 - A young deer jumps on to the road about 6 feet from my bike.  It runs forward a few paces and then suddenly catches sight of me behind it and is like "Oh crap, there's a guy on a bike right there".  It then spazzes out completely, flailing its heels, which can't get any traction on the road, and does this adorable little thing where it goes almost down to a 70 degree angle before it catches up and runs away.

Mile 48 - I get to the caves.  Everything is awesome.  The caves are like on Goonies, except better.  I have a taco salad for lunch.  In retrospect this is like the last meal on the Titanic. 

Mile 55 - I end up on the world's shortest ferry.  The humidity is now set on "liquefy" 

Mile 65 - A man in Cub Run tries to give me new directions.  There is a 0% chance that this shortcut will improve my day.  There is a 100% chance that they will find my body decomposing in the Kentucky backcountry.  I stick to the map.  The lady in the gas station says "It's a hot one" 

Mile 72 - I ride up behind a horse pulling a buggy.  I imagine some awesome old Amish guy living the good life.  I pass the carriage on the left.  Sitting in there is one single Walmart plastic lawn chair.  In the chair is a 9 year old boy.  As we pass each other, he stares right in my eyes.  The unmistakable message conveyed from the depths of his soul is "Please get me out of here, why does my family not have a car"

Mile 75 - I have decided that the worst six words in the English language are "Unsigned turn on to Oak St." 

Mile 80 - The route leader texts me and says there might be a storm coming.  I look up and the cloud is literally staring me down.  "Better get a move on, fresh meat".  It looks like a drill sergeant.  The humidity is now on "pressure cooker". 

Mile 86 - My bike shorts are so old and see through that I am getting a tan on my butt. 

Mile 95 - I pull into Sonora and slide up to the only store in town.  The door says "Closed at 4".  It is 4:36.  She lets me in anyway and gives me a Diet Coke.  I offer to marry her but she declines. 

Mile 100 - I have ridden 100 miles. 

Mile 105 - I pull my last Snickers out of my handlebar bag.  It has completely liquified.  Do I: A) Throw it away, because gross, who eats a liquid Snickers, B) Eat it because I am hungry, or C) Eat it, then seriously consider eating the wrapper because I can't quite get all the chocolate off it with my tongue

Mile 115 - I am out of water.  The town of Madrid has no water.  I face the cold specter of death.  Out of the corner of my eye I spy a really old RC Cola machine outside an unused automotive shop.  I walk up to it and it is humming gently.  It won't take my dollar.  I cry.  Then I dig 2 quarters out of my handlebar bag and it gives me a Hawaiian Fruit Punch.  I may live here now.  It is literally nirvana.

Mile 115 - 132 - A complete blur.  I suspect my brain is curled up in the corner of my skull whimpering gently. 

Mile 133 - All is right with the world. 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 15 - Hodgenville, VA

Any culture like the TransAm eventually develops its own little traditions.  One of the coolest ones are the TransAm turtles.  I had a bit of trouble figuring out what species they are (if anyone knows chime in), but I think by the pictures at this link that it's an Eastern Box Turtle (http://wildlifecenter.org/tips-helping-turtles).  They are about the size of your palm and amazingly adorable and you find them as you ride along.  They represent two things that I love about this trip: one is, the pace we go at allows us to do things like stop and move a turtle.  The second is, I love the ethos of these little random acts of kindness.  I've saved two turtles now from almost certain doom, and I gotta say, it feels good. 

If you feel like helping me save a turtle, please donate whatever you can.  I know sometimes the world feels overwhelming and there are so many requests and demands from all different directions.  But if you can donate to my ride, please do, and I promise I will name a turtle after you!  Http://tinyurl.com/AdamBikes

 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 14 - Harrodsburg, KY

So, I'm at the CVS here in Harrodsburg, and I'm waiting in line for a refill on my prescription (it's for my hair, I'm not dying).  I'm talking to this lady in line about what we're up to and how we're riding across the country for charity.  The pharmacist tells me that the refill - which usually costs $21 - will be $77.  My face falls; I'm on budget now for the duration of the ride.  So she goes away and comes back and says that she can get it down to $42.  Then she pauses, and says "hold on a second".  She's gone for a moment, comes back with it, hands it to me and says "No charge".  I'm confused.  She looks at me and says "There's a man in the community who likes to do nice things for people who are doing good work, and he paid for your prescription."  

And, for the first time in my life, I didn't know what to say.  I stood there, a bit stunned.  "You don't have to do that", I said.  "I know", she said.  "He wants to."  So I said "thank you".  And I donated the money.

So, thank you, Mr. Harrodsburg guy.  Thank you for restoring my faith in humanity.  Thank you for donating $42.73 to the Bike the US for MS Society and helping to fight Multiple Sclerosis.  Thank you for being the kind of person that makes a sarcastic guy's heart melt a little.  And the next time I meet someone who needs it, and I can, I'm buying their hair pills. 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 13 - Berea, KY

So, I hesitate to post this because I don't want to make it sound like we're a bunch of lushes.  We're not, but we are cyclists who, at the end of a long day of biking, would like a beer.  Or two.  So it may or may not be the case (it is) that we went to the only restaurant in Berea that serves alcohol and...bought all their alcohol.  Every last one.  So the last few days we haven't been able to drink because we've been in dry Kentucky counties.  This country we're in is a "moist" county.  No, seriously, that's the official term.  Moist.  Which means it's mostly dry, but certain places are allowed to serve.  So we closed it down.

Berea is nice.  These are not my people but everyone here has been very nice to us.  It's vey religious here but there is a focus on individual expression and arts and crafts.  All students at Berea attend for free but they work for their tuition by making things or doing a job to help the school, which is a cool idea. 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 12 - Booneville, KY

Yes, Booneville, Kentucky.  Population 152.  The Family Dollar is very nice.  It's quite entertaining how...Kentucky Kentucky is.  Literally as soon as we crossed the state line, we started getting chased by dogs, and the humidity went up about 20%.  Someone must pass out broken cars, too, because it seems like everyone has one.  And the dogs chase us.  Still, it's beautiful here. 

Houston and Rice friends: remember that feeling where you took a shower and never actually dried off?  Ah, memories.

3 parting words for Virginia: Green.  Civilized.  Elegant. 

 

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 11 - Hindman, KY

I don't think things are going so well in Hindman, KY.  Now, that's not to say it isn't a nice place.  The Baptist Church we're staying at here in downtown is very pleasant and well kept and actually exceptionally cool.  They've got a pool table and a Street Fighter II machine and a whole upstairs music space.  And certainly there are some cool things in Hindman; some of the buildings look quite nice and there are some law firms and a post office.  But there's also a Career Center, a broken down car sales place, and just a lot of what look like empty buildings.  And a few signs: "Friends of Coal".  "Coal is Clean".

Now, coal is not clean.  These people are, unfortunately, on the wrong side of history, and sadly, there isn't much that can be done to change their fate - if, of course, their fate is tied exclusively to coal.  But I say this just as a reminder that in any war, no matter how righteous, there are winners and there are sometimes losers, and being kind to the losers is super important.  We must save this planet, and part of that is reducing our dependence on fossil fuels - but if in the process we destroy entire communities - well, that would be sad.  For Hindman, KY, and for all of us.

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2016 TransAm/Western Express Day 10 - Breaks, VA

Want to hear a really funny story?  It may make you feel better about your life choices.  So yesterday, we pull into camp at Breaks Interstate Camp.  This is one of these spots that families use to "get outside", the kind with a camp store and cabins and little campgrounds with numbers on them.  Hanging out next to us was a bunch of families with kids.

I get out of the shower and I'm riding my bike up towards camp when I see some of my friends sitting and watching these kids riding BMX bikes.  One of them, about a 9 year old kid with really terrible teeth (that's not a value judgment; he really had terrible teeth) comes up to me and, in a thick Kentucky accent, proceeds to tell me that I am a giant weenie if I don't go off his bike ramp.  There's a pregnant pause.  My friends are looking at me.  I use all my powers of adulthood.  They fail me.  I stall for time.  Nothing is working.  The universe is closing in.  I hear a voice - mine? - agree to do this thing.  I ride up the road.  Accelerate.  Close my eyes.  Careen off the rock, and of course, immediately flip the bike, ass over tea kettle.  Fortunately my body is soft and plush.  I land on my shoulder.  The pain is so intense I want to vomit.  But I get up and, gritting my teeth, I slowly walk my bike back down to the bathroom, and wrap my shoulder in a hoodie sling.

So, you know, peer pressure - if a 9-year-old Kentucky kid can be called my peer - is a hell of a thing.

 

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