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Grand Canyon Day 11 - Phoenix, AZ (70 miles)

Last day! I honestly thought today was going to be an easy one. We “only” had 65 miles to go, and it was basically downhill, and the weather looked really pleasant and warm, but not overly hot. In fact I was a little bummed! Partly because I wanted to feel like I really “earned” that last day, and also because Jen was flying in to see me and I was worried that we would be so fast that I would beat her to the finish line!

Let’s just say neither of those turned out to be a problem. :) The first issue was that the wind was a really severe headwind, especially on Route 74, a rural highway through cacti that had a steady headwind the whole way. We also hit a lot of winds and hills on the urban bike path that went through Phoenix. Then - about 2 literal miles from the end - I got a flat! It was on my front wheel and I tried to just limp to the finish line, but no dice. I said some choice words, sitting in the rocks and heat and wind, changing that tire. Luckily Bernard was there with a CO2 cartridge.

But the highlight of the day was seeing Jen at the finish line! She came all the way to Phoenix! We rode in as a team and rode around in circles and it was cheesy but really nice, and it will be a great memory.

Anyway, I don’t know if I have anything profound to say yet about the whole thing except that, as always, it’s really nice to find a new community and get some riding in, and I am very proud of myself for riding every single mile, even when it was hard. I feel reinvigorated for some new challenges.

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Grand Canyon Day 10 - Wickenburg, AZ (59 miles)

Finally we’ve hit what I think of as “Arizona” - dry, desert, stones and cactus and not a lot else. It took a day of descending, heading down from 6000 ft to 2000 ft elevation.

At one point we passed through Peeples Valley - I figure that’s where all the little figurines in board games come from.

Parts of the ride - the descent down towards Congress, AZ - reminded me a lot of the ride down into Stinson Beach; the terrain and the road felt very similar. People in the group that really love descending had an amazing time, but descending makes me a bit nervous so I really enjoyed it but also I was clutching the brake a lot.

It’s incredible how much the terrain and the weather can change with the decrease in elevation. Wickenburg, down here at 2000, in Mariposa County (yes, that Mariposa County) is hot, dry, stones and cactus. But Prescott, where we started at 6000 feet, reminded me of Truckee - cool, a bit wet, pine trees, good restaurants. I guess Arizona is more interesting than I thought, but I could only handle the parts up near the Canyon.

For dinner we all went out and had a group meal at Denny’s. It was very nice and we got to introduce the Dutch folks to America’s Diner.

Honestly if it wasn’t for the terrible weather during that 2-3 day stretch, this would have been the perfect trip. As it is, I’m glad that the good bits are happening at the end because that’s what I’ll remember now.

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Grand Canyon Day 9 - Prescott, AZ (69 miles)

I'm sitting here out in the parking lot of the church, next to the van and trailer, drinking a beer and blogging. I haven't even gone into the church yet, because I want to capture my thoughts about today. Things have been a bit grump lately, and I have committed to making sure that I am as diligent about documenting the good days as the bad ones, so I just want to put down in the written record that today was absolutely fucking fantastic. And it's not even over yet, it's only 2pm, and the crickets are chirping as Brian puts out all the wet tents. As if the universe wanted to make up for the last few days, the weather today was fantastic - clear and sunny all day. It started out a little cold, about 35 degrees, but that ended up being a blessing in disguise because when the sun came out it didn't get baking hot. I had an impromptu breakfast of diet coke, decaf coffee, hard boiled eggs and brownies provided by the church, then it was 2 miles out of Williams to I-40, 15 miles downhill on I-40 (which was freezing but otherwise great), then onto Highway 89, which might get my award for one of the best country highways we've ever ridden on. It reminded me of the best California riding, or maybe even more so the Hill Country near Austin, except not anywhere near as hot. Big, flat wide shoulder, good pavement. You could argue it wasn't terribly scenic but I didn't care; it was rolling hills with sparse trees and the wind was at out backs. We stopped once in a random spot on the side of the road, and rolled out the tables and chairs and sat at talked for a while. Then another 24 miles into a small town with civilization, and another rest stop - a Bike the US for MS classic in the parking lot of a combination Burger King/Walgreens (it was Whopper Wednesday!) and more chatting and talking, then an easy 17 miles into Prescott.

When this sport - and this organization - clicks, and the weather cooperates, there really is nothing better. The easy miles, the feeling of the bike under your feet, the camaraderie of the team rest stops - it's just one of my favorite things in life. It reminded me of the best days of the Northern Tier or the Pac Coast, just sailing from town to town, letting the country slip by while all my worries just evaporate.

Things have been a bit rough lately - and they probably will get rough again - but sitting under this tree, listening to the leaves roll by on the concrete as my bike sits next to one side and a beer to the other, things are pretty great!

Update! I ended up walking over to the Palace - the oldest bar in Arizona, where they played up the tourist angle a ton, and the waiters and waitresses were dressed straight out of the 1890s, complete with batwing doors. And then back to the church where an alum made us dinner. We had dinner and it was great! I am so tired, though! Prescott is very nice, much nicer than I would have thought.

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Grand Canyon Day 8 - Williams, AZ (53 miles)


Today was the first day where - from a cycling perspective - I felt in control of the process, instead of the other way around. It was a hard day, a challenging day - there was light rain for most of the first half, a lot of it was up and down hills, and there was a stiff wind at times. But these are all things that I’m more or less used to and none of them were crises.

The picture above is my “blue sky” picture. The morning was really wet and terrible, but about 10 miles in I crested a hill and saw the sight above and for the first time, I felt like everything was going to be OK. Not just on the ride, but in life in general. It was a very peaceful feeling. And there was some more rain after that, but not much. And guess what? Everything has been OK since.

I can’t say there was a ton to look at, but that’s partly because of the weather. Not knowing much, I just assumed Arizona was going to be hot and dry. I brought SPF 100 sunscreen, sun protection clothes, special lip balm, etc, etc. I was worried about heat and sun. But it’s been cold and rainy and I’m terribly unprepared! I had to buy a $160 raincoat up in Grand Canyon Village. At least it says “Grand Canyon” on it.

This is not the trip that I thought it would be, but today felt the most like a real Bike the US for MS trip.

Tonight is the first night when we are staying in a church and the church is making us food. These are great days because the whole team gets together, which is one of my favorite parts. One of the good - and bad - things about these tours with Bike the US for MS is that we treat people like adults and we let them do their own thing, which is really good most of the time but sometimes means that it doesn’t feel as much like a “group”. But on days where the church makes food, we all get together for at least the meal. Plus, since there isn’t much to do here, we’ll hang out more.

The town here - WIlliams - is just a classic “trinket town”, as one of the churh members put it. It’s on Route 66 and it has about 8 million vintage shops and magnet stores. Not a bad turkey bagel and decaf Americano, though. We’re still waiting for the weather to improve!

Update from the future: I ended up talking to Jeremy a bunch about bikes! It was a really pleasant day. Early tomorrow to head down out of the mountains!

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Grand Canyon Day 7 - Tusayan, AZ

Today was a whole mish-mash, but in the end, I’m very proud of how I handled the day. The team ended up scattered a bunch of different places, but most of us including me woke up in a hotel in Williams, about 60 miles from the park. We had a team breakfast in an old timey sports bar with a waitress from the 50s and then I got a dip in the hot tub. It was all very pleasant, which made it even harder to then get in the vans and drive back up into the wet park back to our campsite. I had a plan: I strapped on my new windbreaker, loaded up my bike and headed out to re-do the last ten miles I missed yesterday. Of course I had to do 20, to get out and back. It was really a bit scary because it was still raining off and on and this time I was unsupported; nobody was coming to help me. I rode super hard and got it done; the way out was uphill and into the wind, and the riding would have been great except it was still cold and sprinkling. Finishing that, I ate, blogged a bit, then sit in for a nap in the van. But it was so cold I couldn’t nap, and now the rain had come in much more strongly and I feel t stuck in there. Sunset was rapidly approaching, and finally the rain stopped. I made a snap decision that it was safer to head out on my bike out of the park to a teammate’s hotel room 6 miles away. I’ve never ridden so fast in my life because light was dwindling. But I made it, and got to have dinner with him and then bunk out on the floor of a hotel room in Tusayan. This whole trip hasn’t been quite the adventure I thought it would be, and sadly the Grand Canyon was a bit of a dud because of the rain. But I’m still glad to be here, just to overcome the challenges. And I did get to see the canyon, just not very much!

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Grand Canyon Day 6 - Grand Canyon Village, AZ (46 miles)

Today I quit, just a little bit. But it's OK.

We woke up in Cameron, in a church. I was already really really cooked. Dealing with things off the bike, but also things on the bike - I was up to 11 flat tires, and I had gone to bed the night before at 8:30 just to try to catch on some sleep. But we woke up to a double rainbow, and the team mechanic had changed both of my tires and tubes, and I decided that I would just take the day as it came - whatever happens, happens. We got in the vans for a short trip across a dirt road and I started out for a 56 mile ride into the Grand Canyon, telling myself that I would go as far as I could but that it was OK if I had to stop. Normally we don't let people get in and out of the vans, but because of the way today was going to work, we had to ride into the park on our bikes, which meant that if I had to stop in the first half of the day, I would have to get out of the van and start riding again. But the first part of the day turned out to be really nice actually. The highway was busy but it had a wide and flat shoulder, and the riding was uphill but not very hard. I did end up getting a slow flat at about mile 15 but I just powered through it and changed it at the rest stop and kept going. Every mile was a minor victory. You have to understand that I've never just gotten in the van, of my own volition. I've been forced to get in the van, by things like mechanical failures or a wreck or weather that made us stop, but I never have just said "hey, I'm done, put me in the van".

So we get to the entrance and I ride on in. I'm tired but the weather is still good and I get a couple of amazing shots of the Grand Canyon. I'd been here once before but only briefly. There was now about 20 miles left. Unfortunately, at this point the rain came back. When you're on a bicycle, even a little rain can be a problem, because you get wet, and then, because you're moving fast and exposed, you get cold. I have a condition where I have bad blood flow to my extremities, so getting cold can be a real problem. I powered through it, but it just kept raining and getting worse. About 10 miles from camp, I realized I was shaking and getting hypothermic. The road was great, smooth and nice but undulating up and down and on the downhills I was shaking like a leaf. I pulled over at a little turnout and thought about what to do and considered hiding under a tree, but just then the van came by with Jeremy driving and...I got in. He didn't even question it or wait for me to ask, he just threw my bike on the front and I got in. It was the only decision to make and I'm glad I did it.

I'm proud of myself for coming as far as I did. I'm writing this on the afternoon of the next day so I know how the story ends, but for the moment I'll just say this: we all had a camp meeting at the little grocery store up here in Grand Canyon Village, and we all decided as a team to get a hotel in Williams, about 60 miles away. It was glorious; we had a hot tub and a restaurant and I ate Indian food with Bill. It ended up being a great way to end the day.

So, yeah. I finally got in the van!

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Grand Canyon Day 5 - Cameron, AZ (72 miles)

Today was just a really bad day. Both on and off the bike. I don’t want to spread negativity so I’ll keep most of it to myself, but there were 4 flats, 2 within 3 miles of each other, and it rained so hard we had to take shelter. Anyway, Adam is Closed today. Enjoy this picture of my bike upside down because nothing worth taking a picture of happened. Sorry. Let’s all try again tomorrow.

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Grand Canyon Day 4 - Marble Canyon, AZ (78 miles)

Today was the first truly serious day of riding. We started out with a fairly tame ride out of the town of Kanab - which is very pleasant. We got a bit lost because somehow the route got messed up and we all ended up wandering through a field, but once we hit Highway 89A it was smooth sailing. By which I mean “smooth sailing straight up”, which is what it was for the next 30 miles or so, up to Jacob Lake. It was tough, but I got there. I’m not in the kind of shape I used to be. I was still worried about my tire in the back of my mind, and I also got a bit paranoid about my shifters not being charged, but in the end everything was fine. Jacob Lake had a nice little restaurant for a breakfast burrito - it felt like midday to us but because the time gets all screwed up around here it was still morning. They also had good cookies. After Jacob Lake, and me almost making a wrong turn, it was literally straight down for the next 15 miles until we came out of the mountains, a kind of treacherous road that was fun but also a little terrifying. Then it was smooth downhill roads through the desert until we hit this very random oasis that we’re currently in. We actually caught a tiny bit of rain but nothing big. Rumor has it we might have more rain in our future but for now the main result is that it hasn’t been too hot or too sunny which is amazing.

The government was doing a controlled/prescribed burn and the guys were doing it right next to the highway. I’d always wondered how they did it and the answer is dead simple: they have flamethrowers haha!

We also rode through some amazing little creeks that formed these extreme slot canyons, just cracks in the ground. Fun to see.

Definitely today was the most challenging physical day. I’ve been enjoying the trip a lot but I’m falling behind on sleep and I’m dead tired. Tonight we’re in a hotel and I’m making the most of it with a hot shower and washing some clothes and then I think it will be an early night. But the air is beautiful, and the sky is clear, so I’m feeling good!

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Grand Canyon Day 3 - Kanab, UT

Today we left Zion National Park. We couldn’t go the way we wanted to because the road was blocked, so some folks decided they would just take a van all the way to the destination. But if you know me, you know I chose the option to take the 3 hour van ride to where we could pick up the route and ride on! And I was glad I did, because the views coming out of the park to the East were amazing. Sandstone cliffs, tunnels, beautiful colors, and a lonely park road made even more lonely by the fact that nobody could get through.

One particularly cool spot along that stretch was a thing called Checkerboard Mesa which was exactly what it sounds like; a square pattern on a huge rock wall. Picture below.

The only flaw in today was that I was still having some trouble with my rear tire. However, I think we’ve got it sorted now, and it didn’t keep me from riding. It did keep me somewhat from truly letting go into the ride because it kept going flat over and over.

I ended up going into Jake’s Bike Shop and the guy was super nice, we had a long conversation about bikes and I got to meet his super cute dogs, Coco and Ruby. Then we headed to a local mexican joint and I had some fish and beans and rice, it was very tasty. I’ve made a bit of a commitment to drink less (alcohol I mean), and it’s made it much easier to sleep.

Tomorrow will be our first truly killer ride - 78 miles! Looking forward to it, but it will be a test for sure.

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Grand Canyon Day 2 - Zion National Park, Watchman Campground (Rest Day)

Today would have been an excellent day for resting, except that for various reasons I just did not sleep a wink last night. However, I decided to make the best of it, and we started the morning with a group trip up to the Narrows, which is a (sadly very touristy) slot canyon with a river that you can hike directly through. It was really fun and the views were incredible, and the water wasn’t too cold at all. Apparently sometimes it’s chest deep but this time it didn’t even go much above the knee - still, it was very fun. It actually reminded me of hiking in this stream in Oakland near where I live - just way, way bigger.

There’s a tavern here in the town of Sprindale, right outside the entrance (literally) with a Tavern and I think I ate all my meals there. :) Also an outfitters with showers and rentals. The sunrise and sunsets were spectacular. I didn’t get to see too much mostly because I was exhausted, but I did hike up to the Human Museum (it was OK, a bit dull maybe) and on to Canyon Junction (nothing special). If I ever returned here I would love to do some of the other hikes. It’s really not very far at all (by car) from Vegas so I could see myself coming back. Canyons and desert aren’t really my cup of tea but they certainly can be beautiful. It got super hot in the middle of the day but otherwise it’s been very pleasant.

Tomorrow we have to do a bit of a run-around to even get to the ride because there was a landslide that cut the road. But I’m still very much looking forward to getting back on the bike! It’ll be a short day into Kanab.

Onward and upward! Zion Canyon done and dusted!

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Grand Canyon Day 1 - Zion National Park, Watchman Campground (58 miles)

Today’s ride was beautiful, downhill and largely unventful. Or rather, it would have been, if I hadn’t gotten FOUR FLAT TIRES! *&^!&^. Anyway, I’ll get over it. We rode for a while on the shoulder of Interstate 15, which probably sounds scary, but actually feels very safe - there’s a huge wide shoulder and you’re very far from the cars. But unfortunately the side of the Interstate is littered with blown tires from tractor trailers, and when they blow a tire, they leave behind these metal “whiskers” that are used to give the tire structure, and those little bits easily end up in the tire and blow the tube. That said, I’ve never had 3 or more of them in the same day - but today I did. It was exhausting, and with every tire change, I got more and more tired, to the point where by the end, I kept making the problem worse. Changing a flat tube isn’t super hard but it is a very detailed exercise and your brain has to be sharp, and in this heat, my brain definitely was not.

Zion - at least this little entrance/campground/town area where we find ourselves - is very neat, and quaint. There’s a whole town of services available, and I had a tasty chicken club and fries, and even got a shower It feels very touristy but it’s still really pretty. The park ranger I talked to said it’s the second busiest park in the country.

Other than the flats, the riding was easy - tailwinds, smooth roads, few turns. We started in a town and went through a few more towns before finally turning left and heading out about 20 miles to the park; but even here, it doesn’t feel that remote because there’s so many services.

Tomorrow I’m going to wake up very early and take a shuttle in to do a couple of hikes. I’m thinking the Emerald Pools trail and the Weeping Rock Trail at least, and maybe the Narrows or the Kayenta area. The Narrows sounds amazing but the ranger said it’s a) extremely busy and b) a little sketchy, with waist deep water wading, which doesn’t sound super great in the middle of a bike ride when you’re not prepared.

Oh, we also went through a town called Toquerville, where - because it’s Utah - you can’t buy or use cannabis. This feels like a missed opportunity.

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Grand Canyon Day 0 - Cedar City, UT

I’m at it again! Riding 11 days for Bike the US for MS. For those that don’t know, one of my hobbies is riding long distances with a charity for Multiple Sclerosis. For more info check out www.biketheusforms.org. Obligatory note that this blog has a geographical version at http://www.adamhunter.net/blog_posts.html. Check it out!

This trip goes from Cedar City, UT to Phoenix, AZ, heading through the Grand Canyon and through Zion, neither of which I’ve spent much time in. I’ve driven by the Grand Canyon and stopped for literally about an hour to take a few pictures, when it was about -2 degrees Celsius.

Anyway, not too much to report about today; I woke up super early, Jen drove me to the airport (thanks, Jen!) and I flew to Vegas, picked up a rental car, drove to Cedar City and now I’m here! I got to eat at Culver’s which was amazing as always and gave me throwbacks to Austin. Had a pot roast sandwich, cheese curds, and a hot fudge sundae made with custard - as always.

One of the things that always gets me is the street names in these Utah towns. We’re currently staying at 234 North 300 West. Or is it 234 West 300 North? Or North West 234 300? Anyway, not a ton of imagination. I’m not quite sure which religious precept this is supposed to represent. Cleanliness being next to godliness? Something?

Anyway, it’s a beautiful place to start a bike ride; the weather is clean and clear, the town is pretty enough and we’ll be out in the desert any minute now so I enjoyed my grocery store trip and shower while I could still have it. Tomorrow is 58 miles into Zion National Park! Can’t wait!

The WiFi at this Baptist church is labeled “prayforme” so, you know, I guess you know what to do ;)

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Inland Bike Trip to Southern California - Buses and Trains to San Juan Capistrano

Having made it to King City by bicycle, I realized that I really didn’t have it in me - both time-wise and desire-wise - to get much further. I could have ridden to Paso Robles or such, another 50 miles, but I decided it might be fun to take Amtrak. I had planned all along to take Amtrak, but the plan had been to do it from San Luis Obispo. But I knew there was an Amtrak bus connecting service in King City, so I thought I would give that a try.

The first fail came with trying to just book the trip. Because I had a bicycle, I needed a special bike reservation on the train portion from SLO to San Juan Capistrano. Some trains already were full for bicycles because of the World Cup, so I definitely couldn’t just “show up and hope”. But the problem is that I needed a combination bus connection and train trip, and the computer system believed, in its little heart, that I could not get my bike on the connecting bus, and because of that, it wouldn’t let me book a bike on any of the trip. Even after calling and talking to an Amtrak employee, we just could not solve that problem. There was, of course, no problem with putting my bike on the bus, as another Amtrak employee would confirm for me in person, but…no dice.

So plan B was to take county/city buses. I’d learned about this plan from a YouTuber whose video I watched where he went all the way from Oakland to LA just using local public transit. So I rode over to the King City bus stop and got on Route 84 of Monterey-Salinas Transit, just a local bus for $2 that took me all the way to Paso Robles. What a treat! Beautiful views, cheap ride, great service, on time. I had lunch in Paso Robles - very nice place, beautiful book store, great restaurant that Jen recommended - and then hopped on Route 9 on SLO transit down to San Luis Obispo. I considered - and, in hindsight, perhaps should have - just continuing to take local buses, but instead I went to the Amtrak terminal in SLO, where me and my bike had a ticket on the Pacific Surfliner.

I really, really wanted to like Amtrak. There were a number of Europeans on the train, a bunch of Swiss people here to watch the cup, and I wanted them - and me - to have a good experience. We did not. The conductor was very rude, the employees were super confused, but most importantly, the train arrived over 3 hours late into LA, and would not take us any further; we were asked to transfer to a bus to San Juan Capistrano. It took, in total, about 11 hours for me to get from SLO to SJC, a trip that would take, by car, about 3 and a half or 4 hours even with traffic, maybe all of 200 miles or so. There was a broken train on the tracks for a while, then we had to rescue it, then our own locomotive went bad - it was a nightmare. And all along the way, nobody had any idea what was happening.

Because I got into SJC so late, there were no Ubers or anything, and even though it was only 7 miles to the AirBnb, it took over an hour. I was so tired that I kept mismanaging my gear and straps, and almost wrecked the bike multiple times, riding in the dark. I finally hit the bed at 4:15 AM. I will never, ever ride Amtrak again!

It was all worth it, though, because I got to watch Jen jumping her horse, Santi. I ended up there for the better part of 3 days (because my Southwest flight also was massively delayed - go figure). Horse jumping is an interesting sport and a whole event and community - it takes so much infrastructure to get up and running that they do it over a number of days and it takes over a whole campground area, including VIP sections, food trucks, a makeshift barn, people to groom and exercise the horses, etc., etc. Jen did great! I might explain more about the sport itself in the future, but it’s basically what you imagine; a horse and rider, together, trying to navigate a complex series of gates and jumps as fast as possible without knocking any over. It looks really hard.

We also had time for a little fun, including a trip to In-N-Out, and an escape room! The escape room was a bit meh. It was quite expensive, and the physical makeup of the room was pretty suspect. It was a lot of PVC and foam and broken locks, which…is a little disappointing given how much it cost. We still had a lot of fun, mind you - the lady staffing it was nice, it was pirate themed, and we just barely finished it. But, yeah, can’t say I highly recommend that particular room.

All in all, a very interesting and worthwhile trip. Some highs, some lows, but worth the journey and I learned a ton.

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Inland Bike Trip to Southern California - 185 miles to King City

Monday of this week, I decided at the last minute to take a trip down to San Juan Capistrano to see Jen jump horses, which I hadn’t seen her do yet. I decided to reach deep in my bag and pull out a bike camping trip, because it’s been forever since I’ve done that and I love cycling so much! I was impressed, first of all, at how quickly I was able to pull it together; I decided Sunday to do this and Monday morning at 9 am I was off!

I rode my standard routes down to San Jose, just like I used to when I was going to work in Sunnyvale for Apple. Right at the point when the bike path leaves to the West, though, I stayed on San Jose city streets and wound my way down through the city, headed out along the Capitol freeway until I matched up with the Coyote Creek bike trail. It was a sunny day but actually perfect for riding, and even with my gear in tow I made great time down the bike trail all the way to Morgan Hill, where I once again ended up on city roads towards Gilroy. Right before I hit Gilroy I picked up state route 146 towards Wastonville, and that’s where the first problems began. Highway 146 is…not good for cycling. Which is a bummer, because there doesn’t seem to be any other way through. Which might make the inland route not a great idea. The road is windy and 2 lane with no shoulder, and you have to go uphill, which means if someone comes flying around a blind corner you’re a sitting duck. However, I made it to Watsonville which, I have to say, was…unimpressive.

My goal was to make it to a hike and bike campground at Sunset State Beach. California - especially the coast - has an impressive set of free-or-low-cost campgrounds for people that are on foot or travelling by bike. I’ve taken advantage of them once or twice but wanted to see if I could get a cheap night’s stay in someplace beautiful - and I did! $5! And you can just roll on in and pitch a tent! It’s pretty cool. I will say though I never really got to see the “beautiful” part. I never even really saw the ocean. Nice sunset, though. I ended up doing 96 miles that first day.

The next morning I had a choice to make - continue down the coast, and try to make it to Kirk Creek, or go inland. Because I’ve already ridden the coast, I decided to try something new and head inland. I also thought there might be more services available and more opportunities to bail when I wanted to. I knew I didn’t want to ride all the way to Los Angeles; for one thing, I didn’t have time. So in Watsonville, after a trip to Starbucks, I headed towards 101 and city roads, using Google as well as signs for an inland bike route whose name I don’t know. The riding got kind of hilly and the sun was baking down on me, but I still managed a solid 85 miles. About halfway through the day I realized that my last stop was King City; it was another 50 miles to the next hotels in Paso Robles.

The ride to King City is a mixed bag. I was lucky to have a serious tailwind and so I flew along at 20 miles an hour. However, the riding was rough, and a little sketchy. At one point Google Maps, in its infinite wisdom, took me directly into a private commercial farm, and when I finally realized the problem and turned around, I had to ride a mile into 30 mph headwinds, which was…zero fun. And it was dirty and dusty and smelly and sometimes I had to get on the shoulder of 101, or ride on agricultural roads that I didn’t love. So, yeah - glad I experienced it, but also happy to stop in King City and hit the hotel room. King City just feels like a random collection of storefronts and new homes; again, can’t say I was impressed.

In the next post I’ll tell you about my grand journey on buses and trains down to San Juan Capistrano!

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Meow Wolf's House of Eternal Return - Santa Fe, NM

Ah, the star attraction of the trip. And, not to bury the lead - it was awesome. First though, we got up and had a nice slow morning where I got a little work done on some personal projects, then we wanted some quick food so we ended up at Scholtzsky’s, of all places. I haven’t eaten Scholtzsky’s in 10 years and it still tastes exactly the same. Like I said last post, for some reason Santa Fe has all Austin area fast food.

Santa Fe itself seems nice enough. The desert has never been my speed, and we didn’t have much time to look around, but what I saw of it seemed like what I expected - southwestern scrub, nice people, small town vibe, lots of green chiles.

But, oh - Meow Wolf! How I love thee. Just for existing you get a million points. I actually had set my expectations somewhat low; having been to Omega Mart and Convergence Station, I had been told that HoER was going to be smaller and less ambitious because it was, after all, their first one. But I think that’s not what I experienced; first of all it’s physically much larger than I expected and honestly just the size of the other 2. And the visual impact of the house inside the exhibit is stunning; you are presented directly with the very front of a suburban house, mailbox and all. There’s lots of ways through the story and the art, physically and narratively, and we took them all, dancing from room to room. We were there over 4 hours and it never dragged or felt forced; even to the very end we were finding new nooks and crannies and uncovering new details. Here’s some things that HoER does well: first, the visual and visceral impact of a “setting gone wrong” with the “normal” layer laid on top of a weird extended universe is something Meow Wolf does better than anyone. The house feels simultaneously super normal and also really out of joint. You’re in a very normal suburban living room, dining room and kitchen but, like, it’s all terribly wrong and the physical sensation of the mystery is conveyed really well. Whether it’s the mirror that shows a haunted ghostly image of the missing family, or the melted wall paper, or, of course, the famous refrigerator that opens to a gleaming white tunnel to other dimensions, the whole thing is very stunning. And the art, of course, is top notch. It goes from normal to slightly odd but narratively connected and then all the way into just “art for its own sake” done by local artists. There was a Southwestern hallway that we both loved, a kind Alice-in-Wonderland-meets-New Mexico place with twisted walls and a spinning staircase. The story was compelling, too: a missing family, weird agents of a dystopian Order, the chaotic and unknowable Anomaly that might have taken them; a genius child, a weird egotistical uncle, neighbors worried about the noise, home movies playing on the TV. The initial impression of the story was phenomenal.

A quibble I would have - and it’s the same quibble I had at Convergence Station - is that the story, while awesome, kind of…doesn’t go anywhere. I don’t want to spoil anything but there’s a lot of questions and ultimately not a ton of answers, and a lot of the story leads just kind of fizzle out. I realize that’s just the Meow Wolf Way, and I’m kind of getting used to it, so I wasn’t nearly as disappointed, but if you really crave narrative closure, you’re not going to get it here. You have to just immerse yourself in the feeling of the place; that sense of parallel universes, of joy and agony and loss and betrayal and also just confusion.

And the physicality of the place! At one point you slide down through a dryer into a sort of “dryer dimension” with a video of tumbling socks. Another area is just an old RV/trailer parked in a kind of desert dimension, with a radio playing haunting dispatches from another dimension. There’s a video arcade with working games, the husband’s study with puzzles to solve, etc., etc. You can get lost looking for their eternal hamster, or reading through the mother’s journal and her slow slide into a kind of artist malaise. You can walk through the closet into a space made entirely of candy cupcakes.

Even if the execution was really terrible, I would love it just for what it was trying to do. But it’s not; it’s really well done, and done with a ton of heart. You care deeply about Lex, the missing kid, and Morgan, her sister lost in her memories of him, and the Grandma, who mysteriously might not be human. Much like the other Meow Wolf locations, there are two parallel stories; the “normal” one and the “parallel universe/metaphysical/battle for good and evil” one, and they intertwine not just narratively but physically. Which is what makes it slightly disappointing that there isn’t really enough of a payoff. But that’s OK.

At one point near the end, we realized that we had forgotten about the app, and the app wanted us to revisit all the spaces we’d already physically been, and it was like a weird scavenger hunt trying to remember where everything was.

The exhibit is, in some small ways, not quite as polished as the other two I’ve been to. There was no internal physical phone system, for example. And the app was a little tacked-on and there were still remnants of old clue systems that didn’t seem to go anywhere anymore. But these are small quibbles; being able to climb up treehouses and visit other dimensions is so awesome that I couldn’t wipe my smile off my face the whole time. They’ve done the (almost) impossible; build a space for adults and kids simultaneously, and build a kind of “gateway drug” for folks that don’t think they would love Alternate Reality Games and weird parallel physical narrative storytelling but then get hooked, while still catering to people like me who crave all the weirdness they can bring and then some.

3 down, 2 more to go! Then they open 2 more! I can’t wait.

Oh, and on the way out, we did get to go Waffle House! And yes, it’s awesome.

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Montezuma Hot Springs - near Santa Fe, NM

This week I took a trip to Santa Fe, NM. The primary purpose was to visit Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return, which will be the subject of the next blog post, but in the meantime we had some time to kill so we looked up hot springs and found this amazing and totally community-run free hot springs about 45 minutes outside of Santa Fe. I suppose I should back up - first we landed in Albuquerque and picked up the rental car (after getting suckered for car insurance I didn’t need; mental note, don’t use Ace car rental) and then heading out to pick up lunch - we spotted, of all things, a Waffle House! Apparently there is only one Waffle House in all of New Mexico and it’s right by the Albuquerque airport - but, sadly, it was temporarily closed because they were getting sprayed for pests. What luck! But we promised ourselves we’d try back on the way out (and did; more on that later). So we went next door to Village Inn, which, you know, was better than I remembered. We used to go to Village Inn on A1A in High School and it was known for being the crappiest and cheapest diner in all of Jax, which was all we could afford in high school. But they’ve uppped their game apparently. The whole experience was a weird throwback to not only Jacksonville but also Austin because Albuquerque and Santa Fe were a sea of fast food and quick service restaurants, all of which were Austin-area staples. I even saw a Rudy’s BBQ, but we didn’t go.

On the way out there we drove through Las Vegas, NM (yes - confusing) and decided to stop and get coffee and ended up at this historic hotel that looked like it was right out of a 1920s Perry Mason murder mystery and made really good decaf coffee.

Anyway - on to the highlight, the hot springs. They were perfect. Right by a flowing stream, there were 3 separate sets of springs, all of them quite hot and very picturesque. Of course they were unpolished and there was no services, but we saw a lot of locals come and go, including an army of high school kids. We had some time to ourselves as well, though. The springs were fully natural and really relaxing, and we spread out a towel and laid down for a while. It was really great. I love community stuff and I really felt like we got to dig into the spirit of New Mexico and the kind of grungy edgy naturalist vibe. There was at least one guy who was obviously super high. :)

That evening I had an unfortunate experience trying to check in to the hotel, but maybe we’ll dig into that more in a future post; I don’t feel like ruining the mood and anyway the person I was with helped me out a ton and we dealt with it and moved past it to a different hotel which worked out great anyway because it was a Best Western and they had free breakfast and a hot tub. Just don’t stay at the Sage Hotel in Santa Fe, that’s all I’ll say.

Then for dinner we had a very traditional New Mexico meal; lots of mexican food and guacamole and green chiles on everything, and a tasty margarita for me. I was exhausted but very ready for Meow Wolf the next day.

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UnScruz 2026 - near Hollister, CA

This weekend I went to UnScruz for the second time, with my friends Lacie and Stan. I met them at UnScruz last year so it felt like a homecoming of sorts - we even camped close to where we camped last year, except we had a better spot because last year I was so late showing up. I don’t know that I have a lot to say about UnScruz this year except to say that the contrast is so clear between last year and this one; last year was full of drama about somebody that turned out to honestly not be worth the drama, and this year I got to just focus on having fun and hanging out with a couple of friends that really wanted me to be there. It honestly was just a fun and super relaxing time. At one point I ended up in a tent with a vibrating bed and quietly playing music that someone had set up and I just remember thinking “this is the life”. It was a very peaceful weekend.

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Biking 100 Miles Around The Bay

It’s been forever since I really decided to devote a whole day to riding my bike; it’s something I used to do all the time and considered core to who I was, but for a lot of adult reasons it had been so long since I did it; probably years at least. So I fully committed; I just woke up, put on some bike clothes, and headed out about 10 am. My first set of stops was some local places that I love to visit, so after leaving home, my very first stop, only a mile in, was the High Street Pharmacy:

I love this place because it’s locally owned and they sell all kinds of random stuff; in this case I needed some batteries but I also bought myself a little snack. Then right up the road I rode past my yoga studio, Left Coast Power Yoga, where I teach on Sundays. They were closed of course but I love that place.

(Note the “F*ck IRGC” sticker, IYKYK). Then I crossed the street - literally - and hit up my local gym. I didn’t want to go in because I didn’t have a lock for my bike so I just did some ceremonial pushups in the parking lot.

Next I rode down 38th to Allendale, maybe another mile, and stopped off for a picture at my favorite donut place, Donut Savant. They are amazing, especially the cronuts. They’re closed on Tuesdays so I couldn’t stop but that’s ok - we’re headed places! My next stop was a quick trip to my office at ArtHaus, in Jingletown:

I’ve had a small office there with my brother for about 8 months now; it’s a great way to get out of the house, and we use it for recording our podcast. I love the building; it’s like an artist community and it’s a really fun place to hang out. I wish there was more community activity and it was more vibrant but that’s OK. Next up, I rode over to a little park that I like to use along the channel between Oakland and Alameda:

The park is apparently called the Tidewater Boating Center but I just think of it as the start of the bike and jog trail that I often use that goes along the water and then circles back and over to Alameda. You can get in a full 10 mile jog this way, of course I’m on my bicycle. Eventually I made it all the way into Alameda and decided to head down to the beach, but first I stopped at the shopping center across from the beach and took this picture at this store I love called Modern Mouse that sells local handmade artists’ stuff:

I’m up to maybe 13 or 14 miles by now, and I rode along the beach in Alameda and took a picture out in the sand:

I kept riding up all the way to the other side of Alameda and stopped at my favorite shopping complex with the Target and the Panda Express and Habit, etc., and took a picture at the little area outside where you can eat and watch kids play on the fake grass and hills:

Now you face one of my area’s little biking challenges: the Posey Tube, which is a bit of a nightmare for cyclists; loud, full of car exhaust, with only a tiny space to bike in. But it’s a rite of passage.

Once I rode that gauntlet, I went back to my office to take a lunch club meeting with my Toastmasters public speaking club, then I left the office and rode up along the Oakland side to where I used to do a lot of open water swimming, a dock at the Jack London Aquatic Center, which is still a fun place to just go hang out and soak up the sun:

After that I proceeded up the coast past Jack London and all the way over to the shipping district where I stopped at Shoreline Park. We’re probably now 25 miles or so in. It’s a little oasis admist all the trucks and shipping containers.

I continued on to the Bay Bridge bike path and rode all the way in to Treasure Island and rode around all my favorite haunts, like Mersea and the Gold Bar, but they were all closed in the middle of the day. I stopped and took a picture along the coast looking back over the city.

I left Treasure Island by the same path and joined up with the bike path that goes up the coast to Richmond. I took a few pictures along the way, including the Smoothie place which is intermittently open and where I had a great Banana Split smoothie.

I kept going all the way up the path until it ends at Point Richmond and then joined up with the Richmond Parkway and then San Pablo boulevard and kept riding all the way up to Pinole. This is not a part of the bay that I ride a lot, but it’s where I went many years ago when I rode that 200 mile charity ride in one day, and it’s a nice pleasant ride through some small towns nobody’s heard of like Hercules and Rodeo.

Finally I made it all the way up past the Vallejo bridge and to Crockett, where you meet up with the entrance to Carquinez Scenic Drive, which takes you to Port Costa. It’s a great winding little road that feels like you’re headed to the middle of nowhere.

By the time I got to Port Costa I was at 75 miles. Port Costa is tiny and it feels like a place out of time; there’s probably only 50 houses total and about 3 businesses, one of which is a biker bar called the Warehouse where you can get a plain turkey sandwich and a beer, cash only, and sit outside on mismatched chairs or inside next to their collection of weird memorabilia. It’s a Bay Area gem for sure.

To leave Port Costa you take a widing road that leads to a bike-and-pedestrian only path that eventually dumps you into Martinez.

After riding through Martinez, you end up joining up with the Contra Costa canal trail which I used to ride all the time when I lived in Walnut Creek, it joins up with the Iron Horse trail network; there are at least 50 or 60 miiles of consecutive trails in that area.

I was kind of eager to get home by now! I rode down to Walnut Creek and past my old condo and stopped at my old 7-11 (not pictured!) and my old coffee shop, Bondadoso, which was also closed, it was too late in the day. Great coffee there.

After that it was a quick jaunt over to the Walnut Creek Bart station. It was getting late and I was over 95 miles already so I decided to bail and took BART to the Fruitvale stop, where I rode the remainder of the distance home and ended up at exactly 100 miles! It was a really fun trip and a great choice for a ride; about the smoothest 100 miles you can get in the Bay Area unless you go pretty far out. Next time I’m shooting for 200k, or about 122 miles!

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Reno - Salon Soleil Gear Cleaning Weekend (Brocconalia)

First of all, I can’t believe that I’ve never blogged from Reno. Half the reason for writing this blog post is so that I can drop a little gray circle over the top of Reno, NV. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, I run a sister site to the blog here where I map out all of my blog posts that have to do with travel - it’s at https://www.adamhunter.net/blog_posts.html, go check it out. Anyway, this weekend I went there as part of the Burning Man camp that I went to BM with last year, called Salon Soleil. It was our “gear cleaning” weekend which is called “Brocconalia”, because it’s a portmanteau of Bacchanlia and Broccoli - Bacchanalia both because there is a short party involved and also to convince people that this will be fun and they should come, and Broccoli because the shipping container we use to hold all our stuff is called the Broccoli Box, for reasons which predate my involvement in the group. Anyway, it was a fun weekend. This might sound weird, but I really enjoy feeling useful; I think it’s one of the reasons why I would make a good teacher. Other people might not enjoy spending a day cleaning gear and repairing a shipping container, but I really eat this kind of thing up, and it’s a shame because people hardly ever ask me to do anything. But if you need something done I’m your guy - I made 2 trips to Home Depot and spent a half an hour pumping water out of a barrel into buckets, among other things. The basic deal here is that every year at the end of Burning Man, we just load all the gear - in whatever state it’s in - into this big metal shipping container and have it delivered to a yard in Reno, where it sits until we recover from the burn and show up, one weekend in April, to clean and fix anything that needs cleaning and fixing - which, for those of you who know the playa, is everything. We shake out pillows and clean dishes and organize stuff and, this year, we replaced 2 doors on the box and also had someone weld in a metal plate to repair a hole in the top that was leaking. That kind of thing. I do really enjoy Reno and the Truckee/Tahoe area; we stayed in an AirBnB in Truckee and I drank a lot of decaf coffee. It’s really only 3 hours away, especially when you drive it at 4am like I did today on the way back (I had to teach my yoga class). I should get up there more often.

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Morocco Day 9 - Marrakesh

Today I got to spend the day by myself, mostly.  I ended up having a very pleasant last minute surprise breakfast with Paul and Diana, two older folks who do a ton of traveling and were very fun to talk with; Paul is a Bay Area guy from Redwood City and they both used to do a lot of climbing and have a house now in Bend.  Maybe someday I’ll go visit them.

I walked 16 miles today; the whole Taxi culture was a bit intimidating and I love to walk anyway so I decided I would do everything on foot.  The experience made me realize that I think I’ve been unfair to Morocco, and it’s because we spent so much time way out in some very rural areas.  The truth is that Marrakech is absolutely just a vibrant city with a lot going on.  I walked all the way out to the suburbs so I could go to Decathlon and shop (more on that later) but on the way I passed all the standards of first-world countries, the brands and coffee shops and there’s even a Chili’s.  There’s no question that parts of Morocco are very poor but I think we were intentionally doing the tourist thing of going and looking at the most rural parts.  Food, for example: I’ve been mentioning that the food has been a bit dull and same-y but I realized that’s just because of where we were; in Marrakech there is every kind of food you could want and most of it was quite tasty and cosmopolitan.  It made me think about what American would look like if you just went out to find rural Cajuns or rural Appalachians.  In fact, in general I’ve been fascinated by the idea of trying to put together a tour like this of the Bay Area or even of just Oakland - what would you go see?  What image would you try to convey?

This is apropos of nothing but I’ve been walking everywhere with my Ukraine hat on - I just like that hat - but it’s occurred to me more than once that people might think I’m from there or something, and they must be really fascinated to suddenly see a hat from Ukraine, of all places, in Morocco.  I wonder what they think of that.  Probably nothing, of course, but it’s interesting to think about.

One of the things I did today was visit a Hammam and get a massage.  It was very illuminating to contrast that experience with the one I had a few days back up in the Atlas Mountains at the Hammam.  Although there were some core similarities, overall the experience was so different and in ways that really betray that tourist/local, urban/rural divide.  It reminds me of the difference between biking through Kentucky and having the church ladies make us a full country dinner with fried chicken and pies and casseroles, ….and going to KFC.  I’m not saying one was better than the other, they both had strengths, but they were about as different as can be.  Today’s experience was very polished; they spoke English (at least some), the place was spotless, I got to wear a white robe and use a locker, the massage was respectful and professional and perhaps most interestingly all the services - including the massage and the spray down - were performed by women, which I distinctly feel would not have been allowed or tolerated up in the mountains, where we were very much split into men and women and a wiry old man who spoke no English slapped us around for a bit.  However, the mountain experience was a) way way cheaper, b) more…joyful?  If that’s the right word, and c) just as relaxing and positive.

The Medina and related areas are fascinating in the way that all of Morocco was fascinating; a juxtaposition of older ways with modern times.  The city almost visibly shifts from the more modern suburbs with McDonalds into a kind of medieval sea of tiny alleyways, merchants out literally hawking their wares from stands, a constant barrage of pedestrians, cyclists and people on mopeds, and the sort of panhandling and wheeling and dealing that you think of when you think of parts of the world that still use cash for everything.  Like I said, a man texting from his Android phone on the back of a donkey.  And the religiosity comes and goes; it’s always there, in the women covered up, in the 5 times daily call to prayer, but it waxes and wanes; in the Hammam they were very modern and professional, and when I went to the mall to go to Decathlon I could have been anywhere in the modern world.  It’s very odd to see a middle aged woman dressed entirely in very traditional-looking Muslim garb, sitting and eating fried chicken at a fast food restaurant in a booth with a woman who is probably her grown daughter who is on her cell phone.

I also tried - because I felt like I was supposed to - to do the tourist thing and go look at a few architectural sites.  I visited the Madrasa Ben Youssef and the Bahia Palace.  They both were…cool.  Interesting architecture.  Very cool geometric designs.  I liked Ben Youssef much better; it was like an old college to study the Koran and other topics and it had all these weird little funky student rooms for…studying?  Living?  Not clear.  The place was a maze.  But there were 5 million tourists there and it sorta ruined it for me.  I think I’m just not great at being a tourist in cities and doing all the tourist-y stuff.  I much prefer this Intrepid-style trip where we get out into the countryside and have experiences; I realize I’m absolutely still being a tourist and being led around by my nose but it just seems so much more real and also it’s just a lot more fun than standing in line for 30 minutes to look at the inside of an old college.

I also walked about 5 miles roundtrip to go to Decathlon.  I love that place.  I wish I could have bought more but I stuck to a pair of cool hiking pants, a new pair of cycling shorts and a cool belt.  I miss Decathlon.

The driver came to take me to the airport at 2:45 this morning, and I was interested to see that the city was very much alive and active.  For people that don’t drink much or at all, they still know how to stay up all night.  A man was riding an odd contraption - I think there was a bicycle underneath there somewhere - that was literally covered with carnival balloons.  I assume he was selling them but it was hard to tell.  And, again - so so many scooters.

On this trip, I felt the particular weight of my privilege, and in particular the privilege I have to travel internationally.  When I walk up to a customs officer, of any country, and show my passport, certainly there are moments of nervousness, and there are definitely things I could do wrong, but I’ve never gotten anything more than just a nod and a wave through.  I’ve never even had to get a visa.  At one point, I talked to our guide, Abdoul, about coming to American and helping us lead one of our tours.  But he shook his head and smiled wryly and said the main problem was in getting a visa.  So I looked into it, and while it’s possible to get a visa for tourism as a Moroccan, it isn’t easy.  It costs $180 and it takes several months and you have to go to Casablanca and have an in-person interview with an immigration agent, and even then if they think you might overstay your visa they won’t allow it.  The presumption is guilt, which is something I’ve never had to deal with.  For sure, there are countries that aren’t crazy about letting in Americans, but there are probably 100+ countries in the world that would welcome me with open arms and that’s an enormous privilege, so basic that I think I never even thought about the reality of it.  And that’s before even considering the economic and social freedoms I have to be able to afford travel and take time off from work, etc.

All in all, I’m very glad I came to Morocco.  I don’t think it’s really my vibe (if that’s the right word) but I am very glad I experienced it, I enjoyed the people I traveled with, and I think that seeing a different world always gives you a better perspective on your own.  Other than being physically tired, I think I will arrive back in the Bay Area with some new ideas and some fresh energy for my own life.  I can’t wait to get home.

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